Designer:
Nick

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
These are small speakers i made for use at my desk at work, using a single full range driver for each enclosure i was able to make a fairly small profile speaker pair that fits under my monitors while also sounding great and looking good.

Design Goals:
I needed small speakers that sounded good but did not need to get loud since i will be using them at work. I had noticed how the exposed end grain plywood look was getting more popular and decided it would be an interesting look for my desk.

Driver Selection:
I used the Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2″ Point Source Full Range Driver ( 295-349 ) mostly for its looks and its very impressive high end.

Enclosure Design:
Again my goal was to make these have a small footprint on my desk space, although i wanted to aim for the optimum sealed enclosure volume for these particular drivers (found the value from the driver’s information on Part Express), that number was not met simply to make them compact.

Enclosure Assembly:
Used 7 layers of 3/4″ cabinet graded void-less plywood, cut into 5″x 5″ squares and then used a 4″ hole saw bit to cut a circle into each to make the interior of the enclosure. Used wood glue to attach each layer together face to face. After looking at the enclosures for a minute i didn’t like the look of the plywood on the front so i decided to add a layer of walnut veneer to give it a clean look. after that there was simply a lot of sanding, routed the edges and tossed a few layers of polyurethane on them.

Crossover Design:
No crossover, these drivers sound great on there own.

Tips & Tricks:
make sure you check the enclosure for voids and seal them up (plywood is not perfect).

Conclusion:
These things sound great, take up no space on my desk and add a cool industrial and walnut look to my work space. Im using the Dayton Audio DTA3116HP Class D Mini Amplifier to power them, its got a good clean look and also has a very small footprint. The only issue i have is that because they are at work, i never get to turn the volume up.

About the Designer:
I’ve been woodworking for years now but just started into speaker design. I really enjoy the enclosure design and construction side of speaker building but am lacking a little in the driver selection, crossover design, and electronics side of it all and still go to an Electrical Engineering friend for assistance.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Edubb

Project Category:
Car Audio

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
4 nd105-4 in a bandpass enclosure

Design Goals:
To add bass to existing car stereo sound

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio ND105-4

Enclosure Design:
Bandpass

Enclosure Assembly:
1/2 mdf

Conclusion:
Enclosure size 40″L x 19″W x 6″H

Double baffle front with cutout for 6 x6″ 1/2″ plexiglass window

center divider with 2 ports per chamber

internal bracing in each corner and at center divider

1 pound of polyfil per chamber

1.3 internal volume per chamber at completion

About the Designer:
I’m a huge car stereo buff. I do it for me because I love it loud.
Project Parts List:

Designer:
Sparrowlegs Speaker Design

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
Over $1,000

Project Description:
Sparrow Legs Speaker Design is my personal project, making the best Hi-Fi home audio speakers on a budget. Well, the budget was blown, it took 4 years to learn about audio acoustics, many many experiments and the result is 4-way active speakers which includes an omni-tweeter and high mid.

Though a box would have been an easier choice from a fabrication point of view, my goal was to reduce all standing waves from the back of the RSS315HF Sub, hence a cone shape enclosure with a bit of magic inside which enables a sealed enclosure with an F3 @ 27hz.

SEE IT ON YOUTUBE HERE!

Design Goals:
How far can a true DIYer go?

Driver Selection:
Tweeter and high mid, built from scratch.

Low Mid/woofer – NOS Adrian Audio Extrimis 6.8

Sub – Model: RSS315HF-4|Part # 295-464

And the important part the XO –

Model: DSP-408|Part # 230-500

Enclosure Design:
Sealed rear wave absorber.

Enclosure Assembly:
25mm ply with an added 15mm ply baffle defuser.

Crossover Design:
Active 4 way. Currently crossing over at 200hz, 800hz and 4khz

Tips & Tricks:
No tips, you just have to get on with it

Conclusion:
Sound wise, as the builder, I’m always going to say I’m happy. Seriously though, I’m really impressed with the subs, there is more potential than meets the eye and amazed how high up the frequency range they can go…

I’m still testing and tinkering with the DSP, but without EQing, I’m flat +/-2db from 30hz upwards… though I’ll admit, though there is no colouration from the enclosure itself, having an Omni make it interesting within the room.

About the Designer:
Over 4 years ago I knew nothing about audio, my best audio equipment was the best deal at richer sounds. I have a family, crap job which I average around 55hour per week and am still trying to finish the renovation to our home. But if you want something, you can get it if they keep chipping away. An hour here, an hour there, read, listen and never be scared to ask and eventually, stuff happens. Honestly, I have big dreams, will they come true, you never know until you try… I have nothing to lose, even when the wife is pissed at you, persistence will always prevail. If you find pleasure in this game, everything will fall into place.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Yogi

Project Category:
Home Theater

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
2.1 system for music and future TV/video game use.

Design Goals:
2.1 system for music and future TV/video game use. Fill a bedroom with good sound but not occupy too much space. Combine subwoofer and table for future space to hold video game console. Flat panel exciter style speakers to save floor space. Must be able to survive 10 year old boy and his dog.

Driver Selection:
1 – 12″ Subwoofer SD315A-88 #295-488

2 – Exciters DAEX24X4-4 #295-242

Enclosure Design:
Mids and highs are played on flat panels driven by exciters. After doing some research and a little experimentation I ended up using 1″x2’x2′ XPS foam panels.

The subwoofer is a ported tube style woofer with a net volume of 2.15 cubic feet tuned to 38Hz. This enclosure along with the voice coils wired in parallel yields a nice response curve and good control of the woofer.

Enclosure Assembly:
The XPS panels had the corners rounded with a 4″ radius and the faces sanded. Foam pipe insulation was used to dampen excessive high frequencies resonating. Spay painted white and hung from ceiling at listeners head level.

The subwoofer enclosure was made from 3/4″ red oak plywood and a 12″ diameter sonontube laminated in red oak stuffed with polyfill. Two 4″ diameter ABS ports were used to keep port noise pretty much nonexistent. Surface finished in an ebony stain and lacquered to match the other furniture in the room.

Crossover Design:
The exciters are given a full range output from the DTA-2.1BT. I experimented with different caps to roll off the low end but the natural roll of from the panel/exciter set up ended up sounding best.

The subwoofer was using the low pass provided by the DTA-2.1BT. I ended up adding a 8mH coil to roll off a little more of the higher end the DTA-2.1BT was allowing to get through to the woofer.

Tips & Tricks:
Use rope to wrap the laminate on to the tube when gluing it down. Enclose the ends to prevent lift.

Be willing to spend time listening and experimenting with the exciters and panels to get the best sound you can out of them. There are pretty significant changes possible by modifying the panels different ways.

Conclusion:
This sounds great and fits the room nicely. These exciters with these panels have a surprisingly airy and clear sound. The addition of the coil to the subwoofer made the blend from high to low seamless in the room. The sound image comes from the level of the panels.

This was an interesting project to watch develop from idea to end.

About the Designer:
Went to school for audio engineering 25+years ago. Still like to do projects when the opportunity arises.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
JimmiJams

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Dual 2way bluetooth speaker.

4 woofers, 2 tweeters ported.

50w per ch.

Design Goals:
I was looking to do something with smaller drivers. With a little shock and awe!!! Lol!!!!

Driver Selection:
4 Dayton TCP115-8 4inch woofers 8ohm part#295-416

2 Dayton TD20F-4 3/4 inch dome tweeters 4ohm part#275-020

Enclosure Design:
Separate speaker enclosures at.37ft3 . Made of mdf and wrapped with Vivvid xpo vinyl wrap. Ports are 1 3/8 ID tuned to 43Hz 5 inches long according to my btw app.

Crossover Design:
Pre assembled Audiopipe crossovers. Crossed at 4300Hz

Conclusion:
This thing rocks!!! Had a problem with the bass response at first. Thanks to Tim the tech at Partsexpress that’s fixed. He advised me to reverse the polarity on the tweeters. Worked like a charm! tons of bass now! Also a big thanks to all the techs at Partsexpress. TIM,CHARLES, RUSS,AND TROY for all your help.

About the Designer:
51yr old, old school rocker with a passion for music. Carpenter for 30yrs(helps with cabinet building!) I’m a beginner in bluetooth building, but learning quickly!

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Aurum Cantus

Project Category:
Loudspeakers/Cabinets

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
Over $1,000

Project Description:

The crossover was designed by Parts Express, I was trying to find the

archive where I have it but could not find it…

MTM and 2 woofers each speaker.

I can use them sealed or open, adjusting them.

Looking forward to new projects soon…

thank you indeed for your attention…
Design Goals:
Speakers to listen to every kind of music, specially classic and jazz.

Conclusion:
Great loudspeakers! They are fast, accurate. With cristal highs; clear mids, but they could be better? And amazing bass in all kinds of music. Sweet sounding yet powerful.

About the Designer:
Carpinter and harpsichord maker. Not experience in electronics.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Frank Tolomeo

Project Category:
Home Electronics

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This is my version of a “portable Alexa”

I started with an old flat wall baffle for an 8” speaker. First I replaced the face board with cutouts and a port for 2, Pyle coaxial 4” speakers, Part # 267-078. This is my version of a “portable Alexa” Then I re-finished the cabinet and installed new grille cloth, Part #261-815. The rear panel has a blank plate, Part # 260-110, carrying the electronics. The board in the foreground, by itself is a 12v to 5v isolated converter necessary for the Echo. You cannot combine the power and audio grounds on the Dot. On the right is a small board which is a disassembled 120vac to 12vdc Lithium Ion battery charger/power supply. Mounted on both vertical sides are 4 individual, modified, (case removed) 12v. 9850 mah li-Ion batteries. They give a total capacity of 40AH. The amp is a stereo, 20 watt per channel, Part #310-3000, without a the case. It has volume and basic tone controls. I leave them set for music and Alexa controls the volume. It easily creates room filling volume with hard thumping base. The continuous power drain with normal volume is about 1 amp. I tested it on a full charge, with music playing at medium-high volume, and got 14 hours of play time with 4 hours for a full recharge. If left plugged in, it will run indefinitely. It works anywhere around my house. I can take it to the shop, cooking in the kitchen, outside, and even in the garage 150 ft. away. I don’t have to tell you, as an Echo owner, how much of an improvement it is to have a “portable Alexa”. Frank

Design Goals:
Construct a completely portable sound system to use Amazon Echo Dot.

Driver Selection:
In description

Enclosure Assembly:
On hand

Conclusion:
Works well, do not think there is anything like this ever made.

About the Designer:
Speaker Builder

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Aleks

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Great bookshelf speakers project from Paul Carmody

Design Goals:
While i waited a new project on my job i decided to build something to keep my hands and head busy)

Driver Selection:
TangBand W4_1720

Fountek Neo 1.0

Enclosure Design:
Bassreflex encosure

Crossover Design:
Paul Carmody design

I decided to make a sound a little brighter and put 6 Ohm resistor in the begining of tweeter part of crossover instead the 10 Ohm.

Conclusion:
Great sounding tiny speakers

About the Designer:
alekswoodwork

i`m a finish carpenter from Boca Raton.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Anonymousish

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
A set of bookshelf speakers for my desk.

Design Goals:
The design goals for this project were to design and build a set of speakers; that were both small enough to fit on the desk, and with a deep enough bass response as to not require a separate sub under the desk.

Driver Selection:
To keep costs down I decided on a 2-Way speaker. For the drivers I’ve use the Tang Band W5-1138SMF subwoofer, as the woofer. Choosing a subwoofer over a conventional woofer meant I could get more bass extension from the 7 litre enclosure. And the Dayton Audio DC28F-8 is the tweeter, being budget friendly with a good reputation for performance per dollar and going low enough to meet the W5-1138SMF.

Enclosure Design:
The enclosure is a front slot ported (because of the proximity of walls), bass reflex enclosure. The port is very long, running to the back of the enclosure, up the back and a bit forward again. This helps to give it a very low tuning of about 35 Hz; important for the bass extension. The bottom, back and top are foam lined to damp the enclosure, with the crossover glued to the side.

Crossover Design:
The W5-1138SMF has a significant, but smooth, hump between 1000 and 2000 Hz. So I had to start the roll off relatively early (compared to where they actually cross). I achieved this with a 2nd Order low pass filter using a 0.8 mH inductor and a 50 μF capacitor.

The tweeter is hooked up to a 3rd order high pass filter consisting of a 8.3 μF (3.3 + 1 + 4) cap, 0.6 mH inductor, and 24.8 μF (6.8 + 10 + 8) cap. With an L-Pad made of 5.5 Ohm (5 + 0.5) (series), and 3.7 Ohm (parallel) resistors.

Conclusion:
In the end, I think they sound great! They definitely meet the design criteria and have a solid frequency response down to 35 Hz, truly mini-sub performance without needing a separate sub.

About the Designer:
A guy who likes audio stuff from the UK. This is in fact my first build.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
DonV

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
Portable external speaker for communications equipment applications such as amateur radio, scanners, etc.

Design Goals:
Easy to construct with readily available parts, portability, clean and functional look, minimal tools needed to complete the project.

Significantly less costly than purchasing commercially made external speakers.

Driver Selection:
GRS 5SBM-8 5″ Sealed Back Midrange (Part # 292-432)

Enclosure Design:
small plastic ammo box readily available from Harbor Freight or a sporting goods store; i.e.: Dicks, Field and Stream, Cabelas

Enclosure Assembly:
Hole cut into ammo box to allow the speaker to be mounted.

Speaker with mounting flange incorporated as part of the speaker unit.

Installation of binding posts on opposite side of ammo box.

Conclusion:
The portable external speaker project turned out great. The speaker sounds very good with a variety of radio equipment. The handle on the ammo box makes it easy to carry. The red and black binding posts make polarity easily identifiable. The binding posts are versatile and allow for easy connection to external speaker.

About the Designer:
Amateur radio enthusiast. Works in the field of aviation electronics and enjoys creating projects as time and energy allow.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
TITMAS

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
50 Caliber Ammo Can Speaker Box powered with 50 watts of sound. For simplicity and compatibility reasons i decided to use all Dayton Audio parts and pieces where possible.

Design Goals:
Rugged, powerful and good looking…no, that’s not my Tinder profile heading but rather the 3 main points i wanted to incorporate into this project.

The enclosure needed to be able to withstand some mildly abusive handling while still maintaining structural integrity. Camping trips, late hours in the shop and kicking around the job site and in the work van are all within it’s job description and than some.

Seeing how this box was going to be used outdoors and most of the time in noisy environments it need to have plenty of power and some punchy powerful bass, especially for its small size.

Not only did i want the outside to look good but also the insides as well. Since it has a removable lid that can be opened fairly easily i wanted the internal workings to be just as visually appealing.

Driver Selection:
295-378

Enclosure Design:
A 50 Cal. ammo can is about as indestructible an enclosure i could find and it was just about the smallest size that i could comfortably use to house all the components. The only modifications needed to be done were the drilling of holes to accommodate the drivers, LED’s, power and volume, DC input, BT antenna and the bass port.

Enclosure Assembly:
I started by lining the four sides and bottom of the steel can with 1/2″ MDF to not only deaden its sound but also to have something to attach all the components to without using either hot glue or external screws. The drivers were the first to be bolted in followed by the bass port which also houses a volt meter for the battery boards. Next up were the battery boards and than finally the star of the show, the Dayton Audio KAB250. Everything was wired up using the harnesses that came with KAB board however i did make custom sleeves from para-cord and heat-shrink tubes to give the wiring a cleaner more dressed up look. I was concerned that the metal box would interfere with the BT signal and since this was an older version of the KAB without the external BT antenna socket I decided to make one modification to the KAB board by drilling a 0.8mm hole in the BT trace and solder in a MMCX connector to attach an external antenna. BT range is now about 100′. Since the can’s lid is operable and i plan on showing off the insides i decided to install a second interior lid made from 3/8″ cast acrylic to protect everything inside. Mounted in the Acrylic is a momentary button to power two LED modules that are facing inwards to illuminate the circuity. Powering them was accomplished by tapping off the 12 volt supply and bucking down to 5 volts. The LED’s are mounted to the side of the box while the power button is mounted in the removable lib. Making two contact points with copper tape and wire between the bottom side of the lid and top edge of the box i am able to switch the LED’s on and off while the lid is in place and also able to remove the lid and not have any interconnected wires to disconnect if i need to access it.

Tips & Tricks:
I laid out all the holes for the front panel on a sheet of paper and once i was satisfied with it i used spray glue to attach it to the box and it made drilling everything much easier knowing that there would be no mistakes.

Conclusion:
Rugged, Powerful and good looking…check, check and check.

The sound is clear and very strong and the drivers provide plenty of low frequencies. The double battery boards provide plenty of high volume play time (more than 10 hours) and the BT range makes it work just about anywhere i use it. There are a few things i would do differently next time.

Add a baffle step correction circuit to even out the levels with the full range drivers.

Add audio input and USB expansion board.

Wire up the volt meter to the main power switch so that it only lights up when device is being used. Otherwise it slowly drains the batteries.

Overall Im pleased with my first attempt in building a portable speaker box. I think ill build another one. Any ideas?

About the Designer:
48 year old carpenter/cabinet maker/tinkerer/music lover. I love building stuff. Be it a huge custom house or a humble little wooden keepsake box. Throw in some electronics or anything that plays music and i’m a happy guy.
Project Parts List:

Designer:
Andy

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
40″ tall 12″ diameter PVC 3-way tower speaker.

Design Goals:
My goals with this unique design was to achieve an open baffle type openness while at the same time having some decent bass.

Driver Selection:
Dayton audio AMT mini 8 #275-095

Eminence alpha 4-8 #290-4012

GRS 12pf-8 #292-412

Enclosure Design:
12″ diameter 40″ tall PVC pipe.

Also a 4″ diameter piece of PVC that and goes all the through 12″ pvc and exits the back giving an open dipole sound

Crossover Design:
Dayton audio 3 way crossover #260-156

Tips & Tricks:
My one tip would be to not follow in anyone else’s footsteps,come up with a unique design and don’t stop until it works.

Conclusion:
Designing and building this unique set of speakers has been more fun than I could have imagined,and achieving my goals of having an open sound while still having bass makes it even better.

About the Designer:
Life long music lover with a passion for trying different things and figuring out ways to make them work.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Erik

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Amazing sounding speakers from Parts Express

Design Goals:
Modify an already awesome existing bookshelf design for my living room theater. They needed to be changed into a front ported speaker as they live on an entertainment center shelf. The baffle was not large enough for a round port so I created a font slot-port design.

Driver Selection:
295-526

275-051

Enclosure Design:
Bass reflex

Enclosure Assembly:
Parts Express design but I raised the height of the enclosure 1 in because I used 3/4 MDF for the top, sides and front baffle, for a more solid enclosure that didn’t require any bracing.

Crossover Design:
Parts Express with additional .22uf cap

Tips & Tricks:
I calculated the Front slot port area using a few online tools, I added the .22uf Cap per the PE Tech Talk forum.

Conclusion:
This speaker sounds amazing for $100. The kit is simple and you don’t need to be a mast craftsman to put it together.

About the Designer:
I work on cars, motorcycles and furniture (now speakers) for fun.

Project Parts List:

Designer:

Buh

Project Category:
Amplifiers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
These amps were made with the footnote amplifier and speaker combo. Wood was from some pallets I had on hand. Latch door on back, filled with baffling fibers.

Design Goals:
Just like to be occupied making things.

Enclosure Design:
White oak pallet wood

Conclusion:
Sounds great

About the Designer:
Recently retired. Have made cigarbox guitars and ukuleles in the past. I really like the idea of putting amp kits in a whole Lotta different enclosures.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
4Matdesign

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
2 way bookshelf speakers based on an Optimus Pro77 set from a thrift store. The original woofer surrounds were shot and bought replacements from Parts Express to restore them. Ended up also replacing the metal cases new plywood boxes.

Design Goals:
Replace the woofer in a set of older speakers I picked up for $5.

After realizing the replacement drivers would not fit in the metal box fronts, building simple new wood cases was my decision. Wanted to see if I could make this set work again with little investment.

Driver Selection:
WP-5211 5-1/4″ Poly Cone Foam Surround Woofer Pair 8 Ohms 299-2238 factory buyout

Optimus Tweeter Sd-72

Enclosure Design:
1/2 MDO plywood boxes.

Inner dimension 8.25″ h x 5.25″ w x 4.5″ d

No port yet, maybe in the future…

Enclosure Assembly:
Glued and brad nailed cases with poly-fill stuffing. Drivers are flush mount and screwed. Silicon caulked the tweeter plate to the face.

Crossover Design:
Used the original Optimus Pro 77 crossover which has

4.7uf 50V bi-polar electrolytic caps in series with the coil/tweeters,with the 0.4mH coil in parallel with the tweeter

Tips & Tricks:
Use a router circle plate such as the Jasper for the driver cut-outs!

saves hours of time in the end for $30.

Conclusion:
Total investment of $25 and 5 hours of time.

Sound is clean strong and will give years more music

About the Designer:
Architect/fabricator and music lover

Project Parts List:

Designer:
GaryD

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This is a hybrid design of the PLUTO loudspeaker. This an experimental design using a passive crossover with some design features of the Pluto. This is not intended to be a Pluto clone.

Design Goals:
To minimize speaker box resonance. To preserve the “point source” feature of the Pluto design. To design a passive crossover using Jeff Bagby’s “Passive Crossover Designer”.

Driver Selection:
264-1146 Tymphany SDS 160F25PR01-08 6-1/2″ Woofer

296-252 AuraSound NSW2-326-8AT 2″ Extended Range Speaker

Enclosure Design:
Closed box (tube) stuffed pipe design to minimize speaker box resonance. The unique feature of this design is the woofer is placed at a 45 degree angle. To my ears, the woofer integrates better with the tweeter compared to an upward firing woofer. My woodworking skills are at a beginner level, so I wanted to keep the enclosure design simple.

Crossover Design:
I wanted a second order Linkwitz-Riley design. After experimenting, I ended up with something close to a second order design for 7 ohms at 1400 hz.

Tips & Tricks:
After a little experience is gained; trust you ears before any graphs or theories.

Conclusion:
I am really pleased with this project. Both speaker drivers sound better than I expected. The “point source” aspect of the design gives these speakers an imaging quality that is not in a regular box design. Minimizing speaker box resonance gives a cleaner sound to the speakers. I play these with a subwoofer which fills out the bass. When listening to the radio, they are fine without the sub. I would recommend this to anyone wanting to experiment with speaker designs. I would be very interested if someone with more experience and a better ear made improvements to this design. With less than $60.00 for speakers and an economy crossover; this is a low cost, high value design.

About the Designer:
I am retired and enjoy experimenting. I enjoy reading and researching in the diy community. I am at the beginner level of speaker building and feel ready to bring some projects to completion.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Smoof_Daddy

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
Paul Carmody Amigas I built with the Parts Express kit with knockdown cabinets. I veneered them in paper backed quarter sawn white oak and finished them in Jeff Jewitt’s Mission Oak style.

Design Goals:
Good living room towers that I will build a surround system off of.

Conclusion:
Fantastic sounding towers and amazing bang for the buck. They definitely live up to the hype. I have yet to be less than amazed by any of Paul Carmody’s designs

About the Designer:
Mechanical engineer by trade, amateur wood worker, advanced mechanic and tinkerer.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
HILO

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
This micro-sized (4.5Litter) Subwoofer was designed for my “Micro Vertical Twin Satellite with T-Shaped Vent” (Previously Posted2018). Finally I could complete my micro Desktop 2.1 channel Speaker System (Previously I was using with My Small Cube 10” Band Pass LS10-44 Subwoofer, as I posted 2017). That was not small enough to set up them all on my desktop space. In contrast, this very small “B5” sized subwoofer can be placed at the middle of the desktop bookshelf. Complete desktop system was able to retrieve from 35Hz to 180Hz with 4 Litter Rear Chamber and 0.5 Litter Front Chamber. Isobaric configuration(Fig3) enables to cut the half of Vas. “T” shaped vent eliminates the vent resonated sounds.(Fig8) My technical challenge micro Desktop 2.1ch Speaker System project was completed with this File Box sized subwoofer.

Design Goals:
It was very difficult to design small sized subwoofer with deep low ends. I used two Dayton Audio ND105-4 units with isobaric configuration. (Fig3) This method enables to reduce the enclosure volume by half. A booklet sized subwoofer enclosure is the perfect choice for the desktop speaker system. So I tried to design an enclosure as small as possible. WinISD simulated result shows it’s possible like Fig-2.

Driver Selection:
At first, I wanted to build system as small as possible. So I choose Dayton Audio ND105-4, as following reasons…

– Aluminum Cone Material. Strong enough to push the compressed air.

– High Excursion Capability (20mm peak-to-peak)

– Small Vas

– Lower fs

– Robust and Higher Power handling

– Reasonable Price

Enclosure Design:
I used “WinISD“ speaker design simulation for this project. I tried Closed, Vented, 4th Order BandPass and 6th Order BandPass design. Comparing these simulated results, 6th order BandPass Design was the best choice for this project. Biggest reason of designing dimension is “B5” (7.17 inch x 10.12 inch) size books and magazines are very popular in Japan. Additional reason is a small size fits for all bookshelf spaces. An enclosure width was defined by the simulation result, which can cover from 40Hz or less. Front vent covers higher range, and Rear vent covers lower ranege as shown in the Fig8. A quarter wavelength resonant trap was embedded into each vent. This “T-Shaped Vent” design method is very simple, just attach a half length single closed pipe at the middle of the vent. A little bit wadding (stuffing) single closed pipe will decrease the ringing sound and broads the stop-band.(Fig8)

Enclosure Assembly:
Mainly used 12mm laminated veneer boards and 9mm MDF for the vents. After complete assembling, Surface finish material is urethane varnish for under coat (fig7 Bottom-Right). Then I cover them with wooden printed PVC sheet. Inside the enclose was reinforced by 2ply glass-cross and painted with polyester which called as FRP. (Fig7 Top-Left)

Crossover Design:
Upper limit of frequency response is around 180Hz. You don’t need so much sharp slope filter, because this system has natural Bandpass characteristic. (Fig11) I’m using active crossover dividing network and 3-channel amplifier to drive my 2.1ch System. Independent two pairs of speaker terminals are mounted for the capability of series/parallel connection.

Tips & Tricks:
– Isobaric Woofer Configuration

– T-Shaped Vent to eliminate the Pipe-Organ Resonances.

– Printed PVC sheet for easy touch-up & finishing.

Conclusion:
This micro sized subwoofer can cover from 38Hz to 180Hz transpearent clean deep bass sound. As a result of this, Now I’m enjoying various kind of music with this compact sized 2.1 channel audio system. Frequency response is fairly wide, but the sensitivity is not so high, so I recommend using with dedicated powerful subwoofer amplifier from the point of view sound balance.

About the Designer:
I have been interested in DIY Car and Home Audio over 20 years. My previous hobby project activities are stated in my web page. You can search and visit my personal web page, which named “CyberPit HILO”. (Sorry, most of my pages are in Japanese)

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Billet

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Bookshelf speaker with a coaxial mid-tweeter

Design Goals:
I wanted to create a light weight, moderately sized speaker with a coaxial mid-range/tweeter and a paper or poly woofer in a sealed enclosure. I intended to use the classic bookshelf speaker shape from the 70’s. I was designing for a smooth and natural sounding speaker, one that you can listen to for hours.

Driver Selection:
292-568

295-328

275-025

Enclosure Design:
I used 1/2″ Birch Plywood for its stiffness, dimensional stability, light weight, and good looks. I planned for a Qtc between 0.7 and 0.9 for solid bass response. I listened to several different woofers in two different box sizes to get the bass response that I was looking for.

I used a steel grille for the mid-range to mount the coaxial tweeter. I chose a steel grill for the woofer also, to match the style of the mid-tweeter. I left a recess in the front panel for a cloth grille in the future.

Enclosure Assembly:
I started with a frame of 3/4″ square dowels. I then glued the plywood to the frame with adhesive . The front and rear panels are screwed in place for easy upgrades, if needed.

The tweeter is glued to backside the steel grill, near the center of the mid-range driver. I used a ceiling/wall enclosure to separate the bass energy from the mid-range driver.

The mid-range enclosure is heavily stuffed, but I left the woofer enclosure empty to maximize the bass response.

Crossover Design:
I like very minimal crossovers, first order if possible. I find that speaker voicing is greatly simplified with first order crossovers.

I did find that the 5/8″ tweeter sounded much better with a second order crossover.

I use simulation software to verify driver compatibility and to get a reasonably smooth starting point. I then do all final crossover adjustments by ear.
Tips & Tricks:
Listening during the design and build phase is critical. Numbers and graphs are significant and very helpful, but the final sound is all that really matters.

Style is important also, the look of the speaker should match its intended environment.

Conclusion:
This speaker project has been a success. First and foremost, I think it sounds very good. Secondly, I have gotten good feedback from many people who have heard it.

The sealed box bass is very full sounding. The mid-range sounds natural, as I had hoped. The tweeter disappears, which is just how I like it.

I think that the coaxial design enhances the overall coherence of the sound.

About the Designer:
I have been interested in music and audio since my early teen years. I have always had a great appreciation for the math and physics of sound systems.

I have designed some successful auto sound systems, but my lack of cabinet building skills have kept me from building a truly nice home speaker. Hopefully, I have jumped that hurdle and will continue to build more home speakers in the future.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Jeryl Wadel

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Bluetooth Battery Powered Speaker

Design Goals:
I made this as a gift for my friend. I wanted clear sound in a small enclosure. Wireless and portable was also desired.

Driver Selection:
I selected the Dayton Audio PC83-4 3″ Full-Range Poly Cone drivers based on the reviews and price which fit my budget. Part #295-154

Enclosure Design:
The enclosure is self designed and made of dark walnut with strips of ash wood. I mitered all side corners. The top is 3/4″ thick and rabbited to lower it 3/8″ inside the side. The bottom is 1/4″ plywood. It is 11.5 inches wide, 6 inches deep and 6 inches high. The AUX-in, on/off switch, DC power jack, and Bluetooth switch are mounted on a 1/16″ plastic plate. I dropped the LED lights through the bottom as I did not really want them on the face.

Enclosure Assembly:
Glued, with a screwed on bottom for internal access. I also put felt padding around the speakers and all other cutout to seal it in.

Conclusion:
This was my first speaker project. It was a fun project and turned out better than I expected as I had no experience with speakers before.

About the Designer:
I have worked with wood for 20 years and enjoy challenging myself with new projects.

Project Parts List: