Designer:
Matty Hughes

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
My new 192 Watt DIY DML panel build (Bertha)! At 20in x 22in each 1/4″ thick plexiglass panel is running at 4 ohm’s @ 96 Watts, exciters wired in a series-parallel configuration for each panel and powered by a HiFi 100W x 2 (200W) Bluetooth 5 amp with a 24V 10a power supply. A total of 8 Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciters each 24W 4 Ohm were used for this DML build.

Design Goals:
My design goals were to create a powerful and loud HiFi system from a pair of DML panels made of 1/4″ thick plexiglass.

Driver Selection:
Part# 295-224

Enclosure Design:
Plexiglass

Enclosure Assembly:
Plexiglass

Crossover Design:
none

Tips & Tricks:
Providing the full power of a 24V 10a (240V total) power supply to a 200W HiFi amp with treble and bass regulation really took this project to the next level, along with placement of the exciters on the proper panel material. I found this great resource from Dayton Audio’s site that helped me with this particular build here: https://www.daytonaudio.com/topic/excitersbuyerguide#installation

Conclusion:
Using multiple exciters configured and powered correctly on thick plexiglass produces unbelievably beautiful sound imaging- The best DML speakers I’ve ever heard for my third and most powerful DML panel build- Bertha!

About the Designer:
From a very young age, I’ve always been the type of person interested in how things work/function. Captivatingly intrigued with taking apart and reassembling different objects for fun or just to fix. I’m autodidactic by nature and have a voracious DIY ethic. I’ve worked in the creative fields of print + interactive + digital media for 20+yrs and continue to do freelance work remotely. I’m a geek @ interested in art & music, sk8boarding, snowboarding, DIY projects ranging from arts & crafts, electronics, computer hardware mods and landscaping- a bonsai ninja I am indeed

Project Parts List:

Designer:
JAMES F. DAWSON

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Triangular speakers built to look like Stealth Fighter Jets in honor of my dad, Lt. Col John W Dawson, a decorated fighter pilot.

Design Goals:
Get the same sound as a square cabinet, and get the benefit of much better dispersion in the room because sound is directed in 3 angles.

Driver Selection:
Morel MW 164 6″ Woofer (Part #297-030)
Wavecor WF118WA02 4-1/2″ Paper Cone Mid-Woofer 8 Ohm (Part #298-1134)
CSS LD22F 22mm Tweeter (Part #290-3000)

Enclosure Design:
Triangles on big pointy spikes at the right enclosure volume.

Enclosure Assembly:
Glued and screwed

Crossover Design:
Dayton Audio XO3W-500/4K 3-Way Speaker Crossover 500/4,000 Hz

Part #260-152

Tips & Tricks:
Lots of dampening.

Conclusion:
Looks like a scary stealth fight to me!

About the Designer:
Please see my personal web site here: www.JamesDawson.us. I am a Cyber Security Specialist.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Kapman

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
I’ve been working from home for over a year and felt my PC desktop audio system needed an upgrade. I 3d printed the cabinet using PETG and purchased the rest from Parts Express.

Design Goals:
1. High quality bass for PC based music and gaming
2. Small size, but something that hits hard and clean for the desktop home office environment
3. Unique but interesting design that can take advantage of the benefits of 3D-printing
4. Low cost

Driver Selection:
Peerless Tymphany SDS-135F25CP02-04 5.25 inch driver

Enclosure Design:
Half Ellipsoid Sealed

Enclosure Assembly:
3d printed PETG in fire engine red. Then simply assemble the parts. Assembly takes about an hour. Depending on your 3d printer, the print can take up to 40 hours. Recommend PETG over PLA for toughness and damping ability. Video Instructions and link to STL files: https://youtu.be/8ma982eg898

Crossover Design:
Software DSP. Using PC motherboard subwoofer channel and “Equalizer APO” for Windows and Pulse Audio for linux.

Tips & Tricks:
If you don’t have a 3d printer, there are many online services that will print this for you at relatively low cost.

Conclusion:
This turned out much better than I was expecting in both the looks and the sound. This woofer really sounds great and is easy to print and assemble.

About the Designer:
I’m simply a hobbyist with an interest in applying 3d printing as a low cost construction tool for home projects with an interest in HiFi, software and electronics.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
GaryG

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
This is a build project I conceived for a friend’s 8-yr-old grandson (who is quite handy with various power tools and a soldering iron!).

Design Goals:
Self-contained portable enclosure comprising a stereo speaker arrangement plus amplifier/bluetooth receiver.

Driver Selection:
Qty 4: Parts Express sourced 1-1/2″ x 7″ 16-ohm full-range drivers (specified as surplus flat screen television speakers).

Enclosure Design:
Plastic ammo case (11” x 5” x 7.25”)

Enclosure Assembly:
Rectangular cutouts for the four drivers; two per box side for the L&R stereo configuration. Velcro adheres the amplifier to the case exterior.

Crossover Design:
None; drivers driven full-range. Each of the two driver pairs are wired in parallel, yielding an 8-ohm load per left & right channel.

Tips & Tricks:
All driver wire connections are soldered for ultimate portable reliability.

Conclusion:
Fun & easy to assemble; sound is quite full with respectable bass response. The amplifier offers both bluetooth and a 3.5mm jack for stereo audio input.

About the Designer:
Retired engineer who enjoys fun with audio

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Gem Audio by AJ

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
Custom made Blast Box speaker to match a friends Nickname (Ray J). Took about 3 days to complete! The kit was purchased from parts express and the box sanded down to give the edges a smooth feel then hand painted using oil paint!

Design Goals:
Hoping to reach a good amount of people to turn my passion into a side business!

Driver Selection:
Part #300-7162
Part #325-136

Enclosure Design:
Custom made with smoothed out edges for a clean finish

Enclosure Assembly:
Gorilla wood glue held together for 24 hours using clamps

Crossover Design:
As described in the instructions!

Tips & Tricks:
Take everything slow and definitely FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS in order!

Conclusion:
This project was really fun! The instructions provided in the kit make everything simple! You just need a little experience working with speakers, crossovers, wood working and painting! Definitely impressed with the sound quality! Best bang for your buck!

About the Designer:
Just someone with a passion for everything custom made and funky!

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Toids DIY Audio

Social:
Twitter – 123toid
Instagram – Toids_DIY_Audio
Youtube – 123toid

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
My unique design of the MK Boom.

Design Goals:
Make this $130 kit look like it should cost much more.

Tips & Tricks:
For tips and Tricks check out the video: https://youtu.be/peSW1Yrbapk

Conclusion:
It is fun to take an existing design an make it your own. I think I accomplished that with a little LED’s, epoxy and some creativeness.

About the Designer:
I love building designing and redesigning speakers.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Don Charpentier

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Here is a pair of Classix ll Mt Bookshelf speakers designed by Paul Carmody.I built these with Goncalo Alves veneer over 3/4 inch plywood. Although the speakers are slightly larger on the outside dimensions,the internal volume is correct according to the instructions and box drawings. I just went about the construction a little differently. Thanks for having a look.

Design Goals:
My goal here was to build my own box with one of the exotic veneers of my choice instead of using the standard flat pack offered from the website.

Conclusion:
I’m happy with the way they turned out. It was a fun project.

About the Designer:
I’ve been building furniture with high grade designer veneers for years, and I like speakers, so I thought I’d give it a go. It was a nice project for me. Everyone who sees them and hears them, WANTS THEM!!!

Project Parts List:

Designer:
FDR

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
Please excuse the lack of details as it was a few years ago that I built these so I don’t quite remember 100% of the build process. If there are any questions please feel ask as it might refresh my memory.

Design Goals:
Wanted to build some big badass old school loudspeakers.
I had a pair of klipsh KP-250’s(A PA version of the Heresy) with fried crossovers and blown woofers. After some research over at the Klipsh audio community, I figured I could brew up some Cornwalls with mid and high frequency horns of the KP-250’s as the cabinets were in pretty hard shape.

Driver Selection:
I don’t remember the model numbers on the mid and tweeter horns but they are basically the same as an early heresy model. I purchased titanium replacement diaphragms from Bob Crites for the tweeters. I used an Eminence woofer for the low end that worked out to be pretty good tuning for Cornwall cabinet and vent, and worked well up to about 800hz or so.

Enclosure Design:
Cornwall Cabinet can be found with a simple google search.

Enclosure Assembly:
Just basic cabinet building with extra bracing.

Crossover Design:
Cornwall B2 network. I got the transformer from Bob Crites

Tips & Tricks:
Take your time and enjoy what you do.

Conclusion:
What can I say, Its a Klipsh Cornwall with a better LF driver and Bob Crites parts. I like my music bass heavy and these do it for me with just about 20v or 100 watts. These will take 400watts no problem.

About the Designer:
Played with audio gear since I was a kid. Up until a couple of years ago, I really got into the crux of loudspeaker engineering. I have dabbled in many trades but i get bored of them easily.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Nick Davis

Project Category:
Amplifiers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
2 channel Ice amplifier

Design Goals:
I was looking to build a high quality 2 channel amplifier to power 4 Ohm speakers.
The speakers are on the tower speakers page
HOME >> SPEAKER PROJECTS >> TOWER / FLOOR>> DIY Stereo Towers

Driver Selection:
ICEpower 200ASC
ICEpower 200AC

Enclosure Design:
Wood with a copper sheet on the bottom and a metal mesh top.

Tips & Tricks:
There are several YouTube videos that walk you through this.

Conclusion:
The amplifier sounds great. If you can solder wires you can build this.

About the Designer:
I am an aircraft structural engineer who has always had a hobby in home and care audio that likes wood working. This combined the two perfectly.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Justaguyinvegas

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This is my build of the Mini Sub kit currently offered by Parts Express.

Design Goals:
I wanted to upgrade my old subwoofer in my bedroom and this kit looked like the perfect solution. Not only does the included amp power the sub but will also power my Radius 90 satellite speakers.

Driver Selection:
DCS165-4 6-1/2″ subwoofer driver (Part# 295-198) was included in the kit and seems very suitable for this project.

Enclosure Design:
The design of the cabinet is pretty basic. It is a single port bass reflex design with down firing woofer and integrated feet. I like the fact that they used 3/4 inch MDF for strength.

Enclosure Assembly:
The pre-cut enclosure went together perfectly. All of the seams fit together precisely. I used Titebond II to glue the whole thing together. I add 1/2″ x 1/2″ wood strips to the inside of the feet to give the sub a more complete look. I also used a 1/4″ round-over bit on my router to finish the top and bottom edges. I Filled the box with about half a pound of Poylfill. For finishing, I used Rustoleum Filler Primer and Black Satin Enamel.

Crossover Design:
Since the crossover is built in to the amp, there’s not much to worry about. I set the port tube length at 11″.

Tips & Tricks:
The trick to getting a good finish is surface preparation. The Filler Primer did a great job at sealing the MDF and giving me a great surface for sanding. Take your time and it will come out awesome. I used black satin enamel so the sub would match the finish on my other audio components.

Conclusion:
I am really pleased with how this project turned out. The sub hits pretty low and that is a good thing.

About the Designer:
I consider myself a hobbyist woodworker. I have built things from large subs to acoustic guitars. I really like combining my audio and construction hobbies in one project. Speakers!

Project Parts List:

Designer:
HILO

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Extra small(1.5Litter) WIde Response Active 2way desktop Speaker System. Using dual passive radiators.

Design Goals:
Retrieval of the real fundamental of the bass sound. The most lower fundamental frequency of 4 string bass is appx 42Hz. If the desktop speaker can cover down to 40Hz, the subwoofer will not be necessary. Try this with my various idea-driven extra small enclosures, and small speaker units with electrical compensation.

Driver Selection:
Reducing Vas parameter means small-sized speaker units are mandatory. With this, to get the higher SPL quite long excursion capability was needed in the low-frequency. Dayton Audio ND91-4 is the best choice for this requirement. It has 25mm Xmax, lower Fs, a strong diaphragm, and 30W power handling capability. According to my pre-measurement result shows, it’s better to use under the 5kHz. So I added Peerless XT25T for tweeters.

Enclosure Design:
To reduce the speaker unit displacement, At first, I try to design with a vented enclosure. But the vent length was too long to install the small enclosures. Then I decided to use a passive radiator instead of the vent.
There are two problems to solve. First One was a resonant frequency. I added 41g weight to tuning down to 38Hz. The second one was PR’s Xmax. At the resonant frequency, the driver unit displacement goes minimal but the passive radiator swings most. So I put two passive radiators with this small enclosure.

Enclosure Assembly:
I used Gilera glue for building enclosures. 15mm thickness Acasia wood used all the parts of this enclosure. It has a beautiful texture so I finished it with rose-red colored water-borne urethane varnish.

Crossover Design:
Fig-12 is a frequency response on the opened stand space. Fig-13 was measured at the desktop. The low-frequency end response was extended to 40Hz with the effect of walls. I used “FreeDSP Classic SMD A/B” which I designed for this 48dB/oct crossover and response compensation.

Tips & Tricks:
Tunning down the passive radiator’s resonant frequency to 38Hz. Decreased response compensates electrically. As matter of fact, the bass diver displacement decreases even the passive radiators are fully swinging.

Conclusion:
Most of my time spending was operating PCs. So I would like to place a small but good speaker system better than my 27″ iMac’s. Previously I made several kinds of 3D(2.1chnnel) speaker systems. Though the satellite was small enough, but a Subwoofer consumes my leg spaces. This desktop speaker can retrieve deep bass fundamentals, as a result of this the subwoofer will not be necessary.

About the Designer:
I have been interested in DIY Car and Home Audio for over 20 years. My hobby project activities are stated on my homepage. You can search and visit my homepage which named “CyberPit HILO”. (Sorry, most of my pages are in Japanese)

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Brian Raulerson

Project Category:
Home Theater

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
A powered 2.1 sound bar using very affordable components. Everything together (but the amp) came to a total under $100.

Design Goals:
I wanted to design and build a 2.1 sound bar for a friend of mine using close-out and buy-out drivers.

Driver Selection:
I decided to use a pair of the 16 ohm Dynalab woofers 299-320 wired for 8 ohm and pair those with a Dynalab 8 ohm tweeter299-4006. I picked the 4 ohm Dynalab 8″ subwoofer 299-4004 because the amp could drive a 4 ohm sub.

Enclosure Design:
I decided to seal the left and right and port the sub enclosure. I designed it to be 48″ wide and for some unknown reason I cut the MDF to 42″ instead. Left and right compartments measure 16x7x6 each. Original measurements are 48″ wide, 6″ tall, and r14″ deep. A 1″ port was needed so I glued another 1/2″ piece of MDF to the back and drilled a 2″ hole through it.

Enclosure Assembly:
I used 3/4″ MDF on the bottom due to the sub being attached there. 1/2″ MDF on the rest except the front baffle which is pine. I reused a piece of pine I had in the shop that was going to be used in a project for my mother-in-law but didn’t happen.

Crossover Design:
I don’t remember what frequencies I crossed over at. I’ll attach a picture of the actual design with values listed on them.

Tips & Tricks:
My best tip would be watch Toids DIY Audio on youtube and call the tech department of Parts Express. Nick from Toids was a giant help with the crossover design and the Tech Department was also super helpful. As for tricks, use hot glue and regular wood glue to help with air leaks and cracks. You can paint over it just like wood.

Conclusion:
This was the most complex build I’ve done so far. It was fun and challenging. I think it sounds very nice. I would put it up against anything from the store up to the $350 price point.

About the Designer:
This is just fun for me. I don’t know much at all about any of this but I have access to some really smart and talented people that encourage me.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
John T.

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Very efficient bookshelf capable of filling a moderate sized room with big sound, even when driven by a low powered tube amplifier.

Design Goals:
I wanted a very efficient bookshelf sized speaker that could be driven by a small 6B4G based SET tube amp that I built, that puts out about 3.5 Watts/ch.

Preferred drivers that could run full range without a crossover, and wanted them to have a large open stage presence.

Decided to run two 16ohm drivers in parallel to gain an extra 6dB of SPL and would use rear mounted “ambience tweeters” to supplement the highs of the full range drivers while also adding openness to the soundstage. Any combing effect would be avoided by the time delay of the rear tweeters and therefore no complicated crossover would be needed.

Driver Selection:
FaitalPRO 4FE32 4″ 16 ohm drivers were chosen because of their good reputation and flat response and because of their efficiency (91dB). Run parallel these would present an 8ohm load and have an SPL of 97dB.

Enclosure Design:
Online calculators gave me an F3 of about 59Hz with a 0.5ft3 ported cabinet tuned to 69 Hz.

Enclosure Assembly:
Enclosure was built using Baltic birch Plywood and was heavily crossed braced. Sides were Baltic Birch laminated with MDF. Sides are 1″ thick, top and front/back 3/4″. During construction I expanded the size of the cab and ended up with a chamber at the bottom that wasn’t planned. Filled this with fiberglass and covered everything else with 3/8th” felt. Finished it off with Walnut veneer with solid Walnut front grill trim. I used AR style vintage grill fabric for a vintage look.

Crossover Design:
No crossover. Just a 6,000 Hz high pass filter for the Eminence Tweeter. The time delay of a rear tweeter prevents any combing effect and allows the 4″ driver to run full range.

Tips & Tricks:
Running these about 10″ from the rear wall and sounds balance with the L-pad all the way open. I may substitute a more efficient rear tweeter at a later date as this will offer more flexibility in room placement.

Conclusion:
Thought they might be good but wasn’t expecting too much, as this was only my second serious effort. Was sort of blown away, they blew some small Polk Bookshelfs driven by a 35Watt/ch amp, out of the water. Don’t yet have the test equipment to offer results supported by numbers, but to my ears they certainly met my goals. Voice and instruments were right in the room with me, and I was hearing things I hadn’t head before. Stan Getz’s sax and Gilberto’s voice on girl from Ipanema were very clear and wonderfully present, Bach Cello Suites, Holly Coles Voice, Cal Tjader xylophone all wonderful.

Please take the above with the consideration that I am it’s Father.

About the Designer:
Nearly retired physician and on the home stretch and looking forward to finishing my too many project, especially need to get my 59 MGA back on the road. Interested in HiFi ever since my college days in the late 70s. No earbuds for me!

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Zarbo Audio Projects

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
This is a fairly easy to construct Bluetooth-only stereo project that uses ¼” plywood and ¾” material of your choice. It is an inexpensive project, has decent sound, and with its vertical orientation, is a unique-looking radio that has a few features that many Bluetooth radios do not.

Design Goals:
To create a unique Bluetooth speaker using PE’s buyout racetrack speaker and implement an interesting LED VU meter. I also wanted that VU meter to show the full range of its display regardless of the volume level, so I hacked the Bluetooth daughter board to ‘borrow’ the audio signal before it went to the amplifier. It worked well, now regardless of how loud or soft I want to play the radio, I still get to enjoy all the nice lights from the VU meter.

Driver Selection:
Parts Express has secured a large quantity of Phillips #289-2378 branded buyout racetrack speaker modules. The modules work fine on their own, but for my particular application, I ended up modifying them by cutting most of the enclosure off and just using the front portion of the module.

Enclosure Design:
The two speaker enclosures ended up being around 28 cu. Inches each, which was a bit larger than the original enclosure. I used the same 3/8” by 2 3/8” long vent as the original cabinet. I basically tried to emulate the original cabinet as it actually sounded fine.

Enclosure Assembly:
The cabinet is assembled with ¼” nominal plywood. I also used a few small ¾” thick pieces for the base and bottom. Butt joints and glue are all that is needed. I actually made two of these speakers, one with very basic tools, and the other with the full compliment of power tools that experienced woodworkers might have. I would recommend using a foaming glue such as Gorilla Glue if your panels are not exactly the same as it will foam out some to fill up any small gaps that may exist. Either way it’s constructed, it’s fairly easy to build and sounds much better than the money invested in them would suggest.

Crossover Design:
I tested these drivers with the Dayton Omnimic and found the frequency response to be reasonably flat with great midrange (vocal) clarity, as you would expect from a TV speaker module. No crossover was needed.

Tips & Tricks:
I glued a piece of sandpaper to a paint stir stick to make a poor-mans file, which actually ended up sanding the various rectangular openings better than my set of files and rasps did. Sometimes the best tool is the simplest.
I’ve created a wiring diagram that shows the process step-by-step using pictures of the actual parts. Solder on leads to the parts to extend out of the bottom of the cabinets. That will make connecting everything much easier as you get ready to put it all together.

Conclusion:
I like the vertical orientation of the speakers; it matches the vertically-oriented VU meter nicely. These speaker modules don’t have a great deal of bass, given their small size, but it is rather nice sounding otherwise, and pretty unique looking if I do say so myself.

About the Designer:
I’ve been designing speakers since I was a child, and have recently started to enjoy designing and building radios and Bluetooth speakers. I enjoy helping others learn some of the facets of speaker building, especially the woodworking aspect of it.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
geoff hooker

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
DML SPEAKERS MK2

Design Goals:
these are an improved version over my previous speakers using a carbon fiber plate behind the driver to improve frequency response and sound quality without the need for equalization.

Driver Selection:
These use the Dayton audio DAEX25FHE-4 transducers

Enclosure Design:
The drivers are superglued onto 100x100x 2mm thick carbon fiber squares which you can get from ebay or aliexpress and attached onto 5mm thick 20×30 inch foamboard sheets using 3m plastic screws and nuts do not glue the carbon fiber to the board. I used plastic washers made from toy boardgame discs to stop the foamboard from crushing.

Enclosure Assembly:
The panels need stands to hand them on- I used string glued on the back of the panel hung on hooks

Crossover Design:
I found carbon fiber excellent since it is very light and does not flex lthis is needed for dispersing the sound over the panel.

Tips & Tricks:
you can cut carbon fiber with a hacksaw if you cant get the right size boards.

Conclusion:
These sound excellent and are a big improvement over my previous design and can be made easily for low cost.

About the Designer:
I have been experimenting with DML speakers for months. I am a keen audio DIYER.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
patto

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
Over $1,000

Project Description:
Full range high power main and center system

Design Goals:
o build my ultimate surround sound speaker system after 50 years of audio system building. A system to accurately and dynamically reproduce: Jazz (Armstrong to Weather Report), Rock at volume (AC/DC to Zappa), Classical (Bach to Stravinsky) including multi-channel (SACD, DVD-A etc) and Movies.

Driver Selection:
MAIN

Woofers: Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15″ Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm (x 2)

Midrange: Peerless 850544 6-1/2″ Composite Cone CSX Woofer 8 Ohm (x 3)

Tweeters: Peerless DA25BG08-06 1″ Aluminum Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm (x 2)

CENTRE

Woofers: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10″ Reference HO DVC Subwoofer (x 4)

Midranges: Peerless 850544 6-1/2″ Composite Cone CSX Woofer 8 Ohm (x 3)

Tweeters: Vifa D27TG-45-06 1″ Silk Dome Tweeter 6 Ohm (x 2). Part #264-1022   Peerless by Tymphany D27TG35-06 1″ Silk Dome Tweeter is a close equivalent.

SUBWOOFER

Dayton Audio UM18-22 18″ Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

SIDE; REA; AUX SUB

Quality generic brand 12”, 6”, 1”; 6”, 1”; 15” Godzillza, all in vented enclosures.

Enclosure Design:
MAIN
Vented Bass, 225L (7.9 Cu Ft), F0 40Hz, F3 29Hz. Original design was for 2 x RSS315HFA-8 12″ for F0 30Hz but the 15s were a marginal increase in costs & they’re so much more imposing. While these are called subs they are really long excursion woofers – excellent smooth extended frequency response for a 15”.

Separate Mid/Tweeter MTMTM (renovated commercial MTM cabinet retaining 1 vent for no load with acoustic fill)

Centre
2 Vented Bass, 160L (5.65 Cu Ft), F0 28Hz, F3 24Hz.
Separate Mid/Tweeter MTMTM (renovated commercial MTM cabinet retaining vent for no load with acoustic fill)

SUB
Vented 500L (17.65 Cu Ft)

WinISD used for vented calculations.

Enclosure Assembly:
I am no carpenter so my cabs are crude work. Not pretty but extremely solid and massive.

Main Bass: Recycled 24mm (1”)) high density particle board pre-cut sheets with one laminated face (which dictated dimensions to a degree). Butt jointed, glued and screwed with a front to back brace. Gloss black acrylic paint finish.

Mid/Tweeter: Renovated commercial MTM cabinet originally with Vifa P17WJ bass/mid (used as mid only) & D25AG tweeters then renovated to MTMTM. Blew one channel’s mids (see photo) and as Vifas were unobtainable replaced all mids with Peerless because they are great speakers (couldn’t afford them 20 years ago as 4x the cost of Vifas) and required minimal cabinet mods. It was incredible timing that PE had obtained them from a warehouse clear-out!Then changed the Vifa tweeters when the Peerless were on special. That required a bit more cabinet adjustment as the magnet assembly was much bigger.

Centre Bass: Originally main bass cabs of recycled old fashion desk returns of massive construction – 35mm (1 ¾”) hi-den particle board with wood laminated face. Gloss black acrylic paint finish. The 4 x 10” woofers are overkill but I had the cabs and the speakers were on special plus discount for 4 & same shipping for 2 or 4 (a big part of cost to Australia).

Centre Mid/Tweeter are a recycled budget commercial MTM cabinet (crap drivers) recovered from a curb-side rubbish pickup). Modified to MTMTM. Replaced my original MTM using the Peerless mids but reused a pair of Vifa D27TG tweeters.
Sub – 24mm (1”) MDF, butt jointed glued & screwed with full perforated off centre brace. Gloss black acrylic paint finish.

Crossover Design:
All active using Behringer DCX2496DSP for main (300 & 3000 Hz @ 48dB, 2dB notch boost @ 30Hz), Behringer CX3400 for mid (250 & 3000 Hz @ 24dB) and sub (90 Hz @ 24dB).

Amps: Behringer Class D Inuke NU4-6000 (Main L+R Bass & Mid)), Generic Class D 50x50W (Tweeters). Behringer Class D Inuke Nu3000 (Centre Bass & Mid), Generic Class D 25x25W (1 channel per tweeter). Behringer Class D Inuke Nu3000 for subs.

Tips & Tricks:
When going full active put a polyester cap in line to the tweeters to protect from dc blurts (a distended dome assembly is not pretty). I set mine at x-over 500Hz below the active frequency. Also probably worth doing if you have low power handling mids.

Class D Amps are excellent (ignore the purest snobs) – high power/low cost and, if you use them conservatively, low distortion (repeat – ignore max power claims). I run mine at following gains: tweeters -1 o’c, mids 2 o’c, bass – 3 o’c. Only subs at max. I use the Xovers to fine tune the balance between drivers using the tweeters as 0 reference. And that extends to the X-Overs – run them at conservative gains. The high power of the class D amps provides a massive head-room for dynamic range – no compression just clean dynamic power. I would be deafened if I ever went near max power output.

After 50 years of speaker building I can only say that the way to achieve deep, accurate, low distorted and efficient bass reproduction is to use large woofers in properly sized/tuned vented enclosures. I am sorry transmission line fans, they offer no real audible or measurable advantage over a correctly sized/tuned vented except for the satisfaction of completing a complex construction (from a comparison experiment using identical woofers in optimum spec cabs).

The Dayton Audio UM18-22 18″ Ultimax DVC Subwoofer in the optimum vented cab is awesome in my very large sound room. How anybody can need 2 is beyond me.

Conclusion:
The development of this system was a combination of evolution, planning, some serendipity/events and some spare money. The sound is detailed and accurate even at high volume. They are so brutally transparent that it is easy to pick up studio/production variations track to track.

The use of low cost Class D amps was arrived at after testing – 1st the generics for rear then NU3000 for sub which was then used as bass/mid in centre as an experiment. I found them excellent and extremely cost effective (discount the claimed max power: reduce by a third for a realistic low distortion power rating).

About the Designer:
When going full active put a polyester cap in line to the tweeters to protect from dc blurts (a distended dome assembly is not pretty). I set mine at x-over 500Hz below the active frequency. Also probably worth doing if you have low power handling mids.

Class D Amps are excellent (ignore the purest snobs) – high power/low cost and, if you use them conservatively, low distortion (repeat – ignore max power claims). I run mine at following gains: tweeters -1 o’c, mids 2 o’c, bass – 3 o’c. Only subs at max. I use the Xovers to fine tune the balance between drivers using the tweeters as 0 reference. And that extends to the X-Overs – run them at conservative gains. The high power of the class D amps provides a massive head-room for dynamic range – no compression just clean dynamic power. I would be deafened if I ever went near max power output.

After 50 years of speaker building I can only say that the way to achieve deep, accurate, low distorted and efficient bass reproduction is to use large woofers in properly sized/tuned vented enclosures. I am sorry transmission line fans, they offer no real audible or measurable advantage over a correctly sized/tuned vented except for the satisfaction of completing a complex construction (from a comparison experiment using identical woofers in optimum spec cabs).

The Dayton Audio UM18-22 18″ Ultimax DVC Subwoofer in the optimum vented cab is awesome in my very large sound room. How anybody can need 2 is beyond me.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Chris Hintz

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
I produced this center channel from what I learned on this forum. Thank you. I wanted something to put on the fireplace mantel under the TV. So space was limited. I did want the challenge to build something from scratch. So this is it. An MTM nested design with 2 Dayton TCP 115-8 woofers and a Dayton NDFA20-6 tweeter. It worked well and I am happy. I changed the schematic from the original 3.7 ohm resistor on the tweeter to a 1.5 ohm as I felt it needed to be a bit brighter. It’s the only other resistor I had laying around. That worked well.

Design Goals:
A better center channel than what I had before.

Driver Selection:
2 Dayton TCP 115-8 woofers and a Dayton NDFA20-6 tweeter.

Enclosure Design:
Box has external measurements of 20″ wide x 6″ tall x 7″ deep. It is ported with two 0.75 inch ID x 2.5 inch long ports.

Tips & Tricks:
Don’t seal the box with glue until you are sure you are done.

Conclusion:
I love it. Worked out well.

About the Designer:
I am an Orthopedic Physician Assistant. I mostly build bikes in my spare time.

Project Parts List:

I wanted to build a high end sub without paying over the top pricing for off the shelf solutions, relatively speaking. This is the last sub I want to buy and I have had many off the shelf brands over the years. I’m going to enjoy this challenge!!

Design goals: Build a sealed enclosure that has superior sound quality, super rigid, functional and beautiful. Simple goals right??? My end goal, an incredible performing sub that integrates into my surroundings looking like a fine piece of furniture.

Driver Selection: This was easy, wanted performance, top build quality, size and DSP capability for room calibration. The Dayton Audio 18″ Ultimax Subwoofer with SPA1200DSP Amplifier fit the bill. My friend purchased the same set up and when I heard it for the first time… I have to have to have one!!

Enclosure Design: Spent hours scouring the web looking at homemade subs to find design/finish ideas. Saw some great stuff but nothing stood out to me so I decided to go over the top with this design. From the start I really wanted that professional piano black finish utilizing a box construction I believe never done before creating a true one of a kind sub. With the Parts Express sub kit I noticed the SPA1200DSP had a cooling fan. I needed to design a second box for the SPA1200DSP that allowed airflow for cooling so I did not want to integrate it into the sub enclosure.

Using appropriate software and the Ultimax sub specifications I knew the optimal enclosure volume.

Enclosure Assembly:  I think I can honestly say this enclosure has never been done due to the overall costs. If you’re going to do it…? Didn’t want to use MDF as finishing the end product just wasn’t where I wanted it to be.

First off, want to thank Tom at Heritage Hardwood Furniture for providing me the foundation to start this project off with. Top notch build. All pieces of the enclosure rabbet matched to fit together perfectly in a truly remarkable solid piece.

Material? Found a perfect candidate using a 17 layer 1″ hot-press plywood. This material is so hard I anticipate absolutely no flexing of the box structure under high volume. Carrying the 4’ x 8’ piece, although incredibly heavy, didn’t show any flex over the entire area, cutting to smaller pieces even better. Stacking two layers deep on the front of the enclosure provided a 2 inch baffle.

This thing is DARN heavy! Planned early on how take advantage of the layers of plywood and bring it into the design. So much prep work on this enclosure, grain filler and sanding to provide that ultra-smooth finish for that piano black look. Like painting a car, finish is only as good as the foundation. Started off by rounding the square edges at of the box at different radius’s to highlight the front of the enclosure and to take away from the stark square edges.

To keep things consistent there was enough leftover wood to build a look alike box for the SPA1200DSP Amplifier.  Tom at Heritage Hardwood Furniture took care of this with my specifications and his eye for detail.

Crossover Design: N/A

Conclusion: I have been in audio over 40 years and had some pretty impressive systems, to me, over the years. I built my own custom car audio system using tube amp for front stage and won several awards in car audio competition for sound quality class. I prefer tonal balance without a sub being over gained. I can honestly say I have never heard bass detail, attack and decay in the bass notes like this Dayton Audio 18″ Ultimax Subwoofer matched with the SPA1200DSP with the exception of a well-mixed live concert. To hear a kick drum and bass guitar details, this is one that is truly satisfying. This Project took 5 months to complete with all the wood prep work and finishing. Of course had to practice several times on scrap piece to perfect the final outcome. The standalone piece in the pics was the sacrificial one. That poor thing went thru so many iterations, my sander worked overtime J Found out you have to have incredible patience working with spraying oil based polyurethane and to allow proper cure time before handling. Hours and hours polishing to achieve that piano black look…. Unfortunately some of the pics don’t do justice, a couple pics looking at the depth of the reflection will demonstrate overall look…depth and clarity I am very pleased with.

A 7.1 surround system fully calibrated with this set up, beginning of Saving Private Ryan! Wow, the depth an accuracy, this sub ROCKS! Felt like I was on the beach taking on fire, those poor soldiers L I appreciate your service!!!

Tips and Tricks: Patience is a virtue, get a plan together and stick with it.

About the designer: Just a regular guy that enjoys the finer details and balance while listening to any type of audio. Engineer at heart that has to have everything thought out ahead of time before first step is taken.

I could talk audio reproduction for hours and sharing my experience and knowledge. Someone want chat or want one of these? Email me at, newone4a@gmail.com. Be prepared, $$$$

Products used: 

Designer:
JKM

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Blast box kit with upgraded battery board and custom finish. Many borrowed ideas from Project Gallery.

Design Goals:
The definitive hifi pool party sound accessory, like if Mr. Howell in charge of the radio on Gilligan’s Island. Initial plan was beach-theme woven reeds and bamboo, but veered towards a refined vintage picnic basket look with industrial bits.

Driver Selection:
Blast box kit

Tips & Tricks:
Assembly sequence tricky, as enclosure glue-up best achieved all at once, while fitting and wiring tricky once closed up.

Upgraded battery board mounted upright on side (behind left speakers). Take care with wire routing, lengths, and secure carefully with wire ties to avoid rubs.

LED kit was fiddly – a bit delicate and unplug from metal sockets easily. Acrylic panels drilled with standard bits SLOWLY in drill press. Borrowed others plans for LED/aux locations and like the result.

Wire rub and sealing enclosure, especially the power port, yielded huge sound improvements. Used gorilla patch and seal tape to help seal and deaden some panels. Had to re-open enclosure several times for this.

Wanted wire grills for protection, but final fit/finish of ones I chose just so-so.

Applying contact cement can be a mess. Had ‘squish-through’ when applied to porous place mat material – next time “roll out” the glue before applying to fabric. Gorilla patch and seal tape also messy.

Conclusion:
Fun project with excellent sound quality once wire rubs and sealing issues handled. Many positive comments on final appearance.

About the Designer:
Desk worker need hands-on projects to keep sane – vintage audio, woodworking, welding, old cars, etc.

Project Parts List:

Designer:
Don A

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Project started out trying to build a retro looking boombox using PE Executive 200watt Bluetooth kit as a starting point.

Design Goals:
Incorporate mini ADS L200E speakers into design and port the subwoofer. Retro 70/80s boombox look.

Driver Selection:
264-917

Enclosure Design:
Modeled after Paul Carmody’s Isetta Bluetooth speaker. 6 liters after accounting for port and woofer. With a 1.5″ D x 10.5″ L port. Electronics cavity is isolated from woofer. ADS speakers in same size sealed enclosure as original.

Enclosure Assembly:
1/2″ Baltic birch plywood, same as provided in PE Executive speaker. Dadoed slots to assist in assembling speaker.

Crossover Design:
Crossover from ADS L200E were used.

Tips & Tricks:
VU meter backlighting needs a relay to shut off power, otherwise will drain the batteries.
Custom grill from Speakerworks.com.
Handle aluminum tube has wood in ends to hold screws for straps. Use washers to space out straps so they wouldn’t rub on sides.

Conclusion:
Happy with results. Not exactly a retro boombox but I like the way it turned out. Part 2 will be using a passive radiator instead of port to see the impact on bass and Boston Acoustics speakers instead of ADS.

About the Designer:
Degreed electrical engineer and avid woodworker, have been building speakers and audio components for 30 years.

Project Parts List: