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Beast Mode

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Designer:
McDiesel

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
Over $1,000

Project Description:
Building a subwoofer/Tv stand

Design Goals:
To utilize 100% of the available space as efficiently as possible using the largest subwoofers I could find at an affordable level

Driver Selection:
Um18-22 dual 2ohm voicecoil 18″
295-518

Enclosure Design:
Sealed enclosure. 7.2cu ft per enclosure x4

Enclosure Assembly:
MDF 3/4″. & 3/4″ plywood

Crossover Design:
Used an amplifier with built in crossover. 70hz lowpass

Conclusion:
SOUNDS AMAZING!!!!!

About the Designer:
I have always been a bass head at heart and always loved the sound of an 18″ sub in a vehicle. I used to install car audio for about 10 years in my past. I was trying to bring that sound into my living room and have surpassed that goal!!!!

Project Parts List:

Parts Express Steel Bar Speaker Cabinet Handle
Parts Express 3″ Swivel Caster 250 Lb. Capacity
Square Speaker Terminal Cup 4″ Gold Banana Binding Post
Dayton Audio UM18-22 18″ Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

Alfresco

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Designer:
Kev

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
The Alfresco is a portable Bluetooth speaker.

Design Goals:
The goal was to design a portable Bluetooth speaker with a clean look, long battery life and be capable of playing at full volume with little distortion.

Driver Selection:
(2) Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2″ Point Source Full Range Driver 8 Ohm

Enclosure Design:
The box is .18 Ft3 and has (1) 1.5” diameter, 4” long Port.

Enclosure Assembly:
Nothing fancy with the box. All pieces were glued and brad nailed. Threaded inserts were used on the back so it could be removed to swap parts out as needed.

The board is powered by a 12V 6800mah lithium Ion battery. They come is a small plastic box with an on/off switch. I removed the battery from the package to reduce the overall size and also repurposed the switch to turn the board on and off. The battery packs come with a wall charger so all that was needed was adding a 2.5mm panel mount jack on the back.

Crossover Design:
1 non-polarized electrolytic 330uF capacitor inline on each positive speaker terminal.

Conclusion:
Very pleased with the overall look and sound. Music is detailed with some warmth in the mid range. It does lack some low end but at full volume I can still listen to most songs without hitting the mechanical limits of these speakers.

About the Designer:
I have enjoyed wood working since I was a kid. Time to take it to the next level by integrating speakers and electronics.

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio KAB-230 2x30W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
Dayton Audio ND90-8 3-1/2″ Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm
330uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Crossover Capacitor
Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-1/2″ ID x 4″ L Flared
Penn-Elcom H1014K Extra Wide Strap Handle Black End Caps

Mini-TL

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p11 01 p1 p11 02 p11 03 p2_box p3 baffle p4_tl_box p5 stuff p6 clips p7_xo_schem_w16 p8_xo_fr p9_xo_imp p10_01_dwg p10_02_dwg p10_03_dwg

Designer:
John H

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This project is a small tapered transmission line speaker design for use as desktop or small room speakers. Efficiency is about 80 dB at 2.83 V rms.

Design Goals:
The design goal was to get below 60 Hz response from a volume of 3 liters. After investigating ported designs and the port resonance issues, a tapered transmission line offered the best opportunity to damp down the line resonances and simplify the design.

Driver Selection:
ND91-8 driver provided reasonable volume levels and bass extension from a small volume. Two ND91s would have provided more volume, but the tuning would have been above 60 Hz. The ND25Tn was chosen as I had always wanted to try the titanium tweeter.

Enclosure Design:
The enclosure design is a tapered transmission line with a 3-liter volume and a 96 centimeter length. The combined response of the terminus and driver provide an F3 of about 53 Hz. The actual measured terminus output shows an F3 below 50 Hz.

Enclosure Assembly:
The interior pieces are ½ inch MDF. The exterior is ¾ inch material but the entire speaker could be made from ½ MDF by adjusting a few dimensions. The side pieces have an optional tapered back. This speaker’s exterior utilized solid wood with 45-degree angle cuts but square cuts would be much easier.
The tapered transmission line box assembly is straightforward with a bit of patience:
• Cut the pieces to size. There are only a few pieces that get a 3.3 (3.5) degree cut.
• Mark the dimensions for the location of the interior pieces on one side piece. Assemble all the pieces on that side.
• Pre assemble the base pieces then glue to the side.
• Glue only 2 pieces together at a time. That would mean only adding one piece to the side piece at a time. Use weights to hold pieces.
• Pre-fit each piece. As yellow glue was used to assemble, some pieces required sanding to fit without gaps.
• The back piece was prefinished black before gluing in place
• The side is the last piece to glue. After applying glue to the dividers and edges and placing the side piece, turned over the entire box so that any excess glue stays near the edges.
• The front baffle is screwed to the box with wood screws into hardwood blocks
• After finishing add gasket tape to the box edge to seal the baffle to the box. A thin gasket is also added behind the tweeter. The ND90 does not require a gasket as the rubber surround extends under the hole edge.

The front baffle is removable for access to the ND91 driver and for adding stuffing to the enclosure. The front baffle is mounted to the box then the baffle sides are routed flush to the box to ensure they match. The front baffle has a ½ inch radius round over on the front edges.

The tweeter hole is cut with a 1-7/8-inch hole saw then the recess is cut with a 3/8-inch rabbet. The ND91 driver hole is cut with a 3-1/8-inch hole saw. The back side of the hole receives a 3/8-inch by 3/8-inch rabbet. The front side receives a 45-degree chamfer ¼ inch deep.

The ND91 driver corners are snipped off so the driver fits in the 3/8-inch by 3/8-inch rabbet. The ND91 driver is held in place with 3 angle clips.

About 2 oz. of insulation is added in the large end of the enclosure up to the ND91 driver to damp the line resonances. If utilizing Acousta-Stuf consider using poly batting to hold the stuffing in place. There is no stuffing after the ND91 driver.

The crossover is mounted in an open space under the speaker. If mounting the crossover on a separate board, make sure no components are below the bottom of the speaker. Seal the wire holes between the enclosure and crossover area.

Crossover Design:
The crossover was designed for flat frequency response with a minimum number of components. Crossover is at 3,300 Hz with LR2 slopes. 2 parallel resistors are wired together for 4 ohms and increased power handling.

Tips & Tricks:
This project would be much easier with all ½ inch MDF and square cut joints. The baffle mounting blocks should be hardwood to hold the baffle mounting screws.

Conclusion:
This was a fun project to learn how to make a tapered transmission line speaker. The line resonances were able to be damped down which is an improvement over a ported speaker tuned to the same frequency.

About the Designer:
John is a member of the Parts Express Speaker Building Design Team

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio ND25TA-4 1″ Titanium Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Dayton Audio ND91-8 3-1/2″ Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel
ERSE 0.15mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
ERSE 2.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio PMPC-2.0 2.0uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor
Audyn Cap Q4 12uF 400V MKP Foil Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-10 10uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DNR-8.0 8 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-4.0 4 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor

Miniature Full Range Open Baffle for the Desktop

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Designer:
Craig J Coley

Project Category:
Bookshelf Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This project is called the Coley OB-4 Desktop Open Baffle speaker. It is a miniature full range open baffle speaker with a frequency response of 50 Hz to 20 KHz. The circuitry presents a high impedance to the amplifier at high frequency, preventing high frequency instability with simple amplifier designs.

Design Goals:
This project began with two goals, (1) determine the minimum possible size for a full range open baffle, and (2) design a set of speakers suitable for desktop use at the office. Considering that small, low distortion Class D bluetooth amplifiers were readily available, it was decided to accept 20-22dB of efficiency loss to make the speaker full range. This efficiency sacrifice may sound unacceptably large but with a 30W low distortion amplifier costing only $30.00 or so, there is still plenty of volume available to achieve a high fidelity sound.

Driver Selection:
A Mark Audio CHN-70, Tang Band W4-1320, and Tang Band W4-1720 were evaluated for this project. I was surprised to learn that my own measurements of the Tang Band W4-1720 woofer showed it to be a better full range speaker than either the Mark CHN-70 or Tang Band W4-1320. The W4-1720, even though advertised as a woofer, had a flatter high frequency response than the manufacturers data sheet implied, as well as better Xmax and a lower free air resonance.

Enclosure Design:
The baffle for the OB-4 is a simple flat board made from 1 x 6 cedar with a 3 inch foot made from 1 x 4 cedar. Cedar was chosen for its low cost, pleasant grain, and lack of formaldehyde that can trigger allergic reactions.

Enclosure Assembly:
Because the OB-4 is a simple open baffle, construction is quick and easy. The baffle and foot were first rip cut and then sanded smooth using an orbital sander. All edges were treated with a router and round-over bit. One edge of the 3” foot was cut at 10 degrees with a band saw and two pocket holes were drilled for attachment to the main baffle. The driver hole was cut with a 4” hole saw and the hole edges rounded with the router. Because this was solid wood, all holes were predrilled to avoid splitting.

Once assembled, the finish used was a Minwax water based walnut stain that is fast drying, low odor and low allergy potential.

Crossover Design:
The crossover is a simple LR shelving circuit used to provide a conjugate match to the natural bass rolloff of the driver. Once initial measurements were taken of the driver itself, the driver characteristics were entered in SPICE and the circuit modeled to achieve the desired conjugate characteristics of the circuitry for compensation. Approximately 22dB of efficiency loss was required to flatten the driver response from 50 Hz to 20 KHz.

Tips & Tricks:
The baffle isn’t critical in either size or material and can easily be made from any convenient material such as MDF. The 30mH inductor also isn’t critical and can be made from a wide variety of solid and air core inductors as long as the rated saturation current is at least 1.0 amp.

Conclusion:
The Coley OB-4 performs extraordinarily well as a desktop speaker system, bringing high fidelity sound to the office at low cost.

It may be difficult for some builders to get past the low efficiency of the OB-4 but this shouldn’t be a deciding factor. The overall sound is excellent and flat in frequency response, betraying both the speaker size and the low efficiency. I have tried these speakers with a wide range of amplifiers from my $1100.00+ Coley 215SE high end SET amplifier to low cost Class D amplifiers cost only $30.00, all with excellent results.

About the Designer:
This project was designed and built by Craig J. Coley of Burleson, TX. I work as an electrical designer and am listed as inventor on 8 US patents in the field of avionics. Contact me at craigjcoley@gmail.com.

Project Parts List:

Tang Band W4-1720 4″ Underhung Midbass Driver
100 Ohm 5W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance

L1 Loudspeaker

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Designer:
Kyle

Project Category:
Loudspeakers/Cabinets

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
The L1’s utilize a 12″ Dayton audio woofer along with JBL horn drivers coupled with a crossover to ensure a balanced sound. An Lpad was incorporated to allow for high end adjustment. Banana jacks were used for inputs but could easily be replaced with speakon or 1/4″ jacks depending on your setup. The cabinets are covered ntracted from 3/4″ particle board which ended up working quite well when assembled using a Craig jig to make pocket holes. The front face baffle uses two stacked boards for higher strength and allowed the woofer cutout to be countersunk to allow the woofer to sit flush with the face. The cabinet is coated in duratex which has a high quality textured finish that also covers small imperfections and can be easily repaired if scratched. The cabinet it split in to parts internally to maintain the proper volume for the woofer. The crossover was built on a pice of mdf and is screwed inside the upper portion of the divided cabinet. Two ports were used based on a volume calculator and the cabinets were loosely filled with Polyfill. The crossover was based upon a design I previously found on the parts express project site.

Design Goals:
To create a speaker loud enough for parties with a higher build quality than what’s found in most two way PA speakers that are common on the market. They needed to be easily moved by one person and portable enough to be taken to a variety of venues as well as durable to withstand their environments.

Driver Selection:
The Dayton Audio PA310-8 12″ Pro Woofer (part #295-032) was selected and the cabinet was built to the suggested ported cabinet specifications.

The JBL Selenium D220Ti 1″ Titanium Horn Driver 8 Ohm (part # 264-270) was used along with a Dayton audio flared horn.

Enclosure Design:
Four Precision Port 3″ Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube Kits (part #268-350) were used and port length was decided based upon included equation and cabinet size.

Parts Express Steel Bar Speaker Cabinet Handles (part #262-821) were used for ease of mobility.

Acry-Tech DuraTex Black 1 Gallon Roller Grade Speaker Cabinet Coating (part #  260-101) was used to finish the cabinets with enough left over to cover two more cabinets of the same size.

Parts Express Recessed Speaker Wire Terminal Cup Banana 5-Way Binding Posts (part #260-303) were used for the inputs but could easily be replaced with Speakon or 1/4″ hookups.

Acry-Tech DuraTex Black 1 Gallon Roller Grade Speaker Cabinet Coating (part #  260-101) was used to finish the cabinets with enough left over to cover two more of the same size.

Enclosure Assembly:
The cabinets are made out of particle board and constructed with Craig jig pocket holes. Imperfections were filled with wood filler. They were then covered in three coats of Duratex to achieve the desired texture.

Crossover Design:
Crossover based on Econowave crossover design.

Tips & Tricks:
To get the most out of your speakers, always follow suggested cabinet volume guidelines.

Conclusion:
The L1 loudspeakers fit my design goals in that they are loud but also have quality sound reproduction, they’re portable, durable, and have a higher craftsmanship than many commercially available PA speakers all for under $600. They are currently driven with a Crown amplifier.

About the Designer:
I’m a high school student who recently got into vintage tuners and amplifiers after my first glance at a McIntosh amp. I wanted to design speakers that were durable and sported the quality craftsmanship of a vintage speaker. I find interest in the design of speakers and enjoy the construction process. At the end of the day, it’s satisfying to see what comes from hard work and a Dad who’s willing to help.

The Boomsticks

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Designer:
Kerry Armes

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
“Yeah. All right, you primitive screwheads, listen up. See this? This…is my BOOMSTICK! It’s a 4″ quad woofer tower, S-Mart’s top-of-the-line. You can find this in the electronics department. That’s right, this sweet baby was made in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Retails for about $299.95. It’s got a MDF stock, brushed aluminum and a hair trigger. That’s right. Shop Smart. Shop S-Mart. YA GOT THAT!?”

The Boomsticks are a slim, high-WAF, tower design with surprising bass output given the small woofers and relatively diminutive footprint. They utilize the Dayton RS100-8 and Dayton ND25FA.

Design Goals:
I’ve always loved the look of slim “lifestyle” towers that you get in those home-theater-in-a-box (HTIB) systems, but they always perform terribly. If they even come with towers, the HTIB systems typically lack any real bass output, use cheap quality drivers, and plastic enclosures. This leads to localization issues with the sub having to be crossed too high, high, distortion, and resonant enclosures.

I wanted to make something that had a similar look of those towers – slim and sleek with multiple drive units – but performed better in all aspects. I’ve always loved the look of multiple driver towers, and I think most people probably feel the same way about this. I also wanted this design to be good enough for both music without a sub and movies in a HT system with one.

Driver Selection:
For this build, I needed a small driver that could play deep in a relatively small enclosure. However, most small drivers suffer from less than stellar bass reproduction when they can reach low due to high distortion from the small cone trying to reproduce those notes. This is especially apparent as you turn up the volume. After considering a few different options, I settled on the Dayton RS100-8. I went with the 8 Ohm version over the 4 Ohm so that it would have more appeal to people building this design.

There are a number of reasons I chose this driver. First, the outside frame is just under 4” diameter, which meant I could keep the cabinet very slim. Second, the RS100-8 already has low midrange distortion, and adding 4 per side allowed me to lower that even further, reduce the excursion demands at higher outputs, and therefore lower the bass distortion as well. Four of them per side gives you roughly the same cone area as a single 7” driver. You also end up at roughly 85dB efficiency, which is a few dB more than most 7” drivers would be at if used in a standard 2-way. Third, they have a unique set of T/S parameters, that when vented in an oversized box, actually reduces a lot of the excursion demands on the woofer (see excursion graph), again, leading to lower distortion from the small driver.

I knew I wanted a tweeter with a small faceplate to keep the look proportionate and the spacing on the drivers close. I ended up deciding to keep it all Dayton and go with the Dayton ND25FA. This tweeter met my requirements for a small faceplate, it can cross reasonably low, has very good distortion for its price, and a smooth response.

Enclosure Design:
The enclosure was designed to be tall and slim. Dimensions and driver layouts are in the cabinet drawing. I used 3 window pane style braces in the cabinet. Location of the braces is not critical as long as they don’t interfere with the port opening or block driver cutouts. You can use more than 3 if you so desire.

The internal volume of the enclosure came out to be right around 18-18.5L after ports, drivers, and bracing. The cabinet is tuned with two 2” diameter, 7.25” long ports. This gives a tuning around 55 Hz with an f3 around 48 Hz. This provides a fairly satisfying bottom end without the use of a sub.

A single 2” showed vent velocity exceeding desired max at higher output levels which could lead to chuffing. A single 3” PVC looked like it might block the inside of the cabinet too much once an elbow was added for the necessary bend to cover the length.

An access panel was cut into the bottom of the cabinet for the crossover that can reached by removing the base. The aluminum ring around the tweeter is not a necessity and leaving it off will not change the design at all. It was added because I thought I might eventually try the Morel CAT408 in these.

Enclosure Assembly:
These enclosures were CNC cut and shipped to me as a flat pack by forum member Kevin K. but can easily be cut with a table saw or track saw and a router. The only special treatment I did on these was using some Flex Seal on the inside of the cabs to try and deaden the enclosure some. In the end, I found this to likely be a waste of money given the price and the small benefit it seemed to provide in deadening. I would stick with something like flashing paper or car audio CLD material in the future. I could have covered just as much area at a higher thickness for equal or lesser price. The cabinets were then lined in the upper half with denim insulation. I used double thickness right behind the drivers.

The paint I used on these was Dupli-Color Metalcast. I put down the base coat, which is a light silver metallic flake, and then used a mixture of red and orange of the top coat to get the color I was wanting. I had a difficult time with the Metalcast getting it to go on evenly and it led to some uneven shading you can see in a couple of the pictures. I don’t think I would try this again on a cabinet this large, maybe on a small bookshelf though.

Crossover Design:
The crossover turned out much simpler than I had expected. The woofer section is a damped second order electrical with a bottomless notch and then an additional coil on the .5 woofers. Tweeter is second order electrical with a resistor before and after the crossover. The tweeter ended up roughly second order acoustic at 3200 and the woofers sum to around fourth order at 2700. The RS100 is a small enough driver that this leads to a fairly well controlled off-axis response. For the small capacitor across the inductor in the woofer circuit, I used a 0.1 uF and 0.22 uF capacitor in series with each other and then parallel across the inductor to get the value I needed. A 0.1 uF by itself is pretty close but not exactly where the breakup on my woofer measured.

Tips & Tricks:
You’ll need to plan out the size of your crossover board and layout carefully. Access through the driver cutouts is pretty difficult and even the bottom panel I had on mine didn’t allow much space. A rear access panel might be a slightly better option. As always, I recommend buying a couple resistors of different sizes to play around with the level to taste. On the tweeter circuit, you’ll want to adjust the resistor closest to the tweeter. If have the speakers pushed up against a wall or in corners and feel they are too dark, try reducing tweeter padding and if necessary, go to a slightly smaller inductor in the woofer circuit.

Conclusion:
This design was a fun build and provides for a what I would consider to be a pretty cool little speaker. Honestly, I expected more tradeoffs when going with this format than I had to make in the end. But looking back on how this turned out and considering if I were to build something in a 2-way with a single 7” woofer instead to get roughly the same cone area, my box would be wider, I would have to have a more expensive tweeter that would cross lower to maintain off-axis performance, I would have less sensitivity, I might actually have less cone control on bass heavy material, and potentially more midrange distortion. The only thing I think a 7” 2-way would bring over this design would be slightly lower bass distortion if I were using a higher end driver and a little bit more extension in a much bigger cabinet. But as you can see from the distortion plots, this is still a rather clean design, especially above 300 Hz.

So the real question everyone always wants to know is how do they sound? I’m very happy with them. They measure very flat and sound very neutral overall. Vocals still have a standout quality to them though. That might be due to the very low midrange and up distortion. They image very well, especially with some space between and around the speakers. I’ve also really cranked these to try and get into some excursion issues and I haven’t been able to get the cones moving much at all, even at hearing damage levels. Overall, this is one of the few projects I’ve done where I felt like I not only met my initial expectations, but exceeded them. I really expected more tradeoffs when I first started planning this one out.

About the Designer:
Kerry recently separated from the U.S. Navy after serving 8 years as a nuclear submarine officer. In his time with the Navy, he picked up a significant amount of experience in acoustic and electrical theory. Today, he works as a Project Manager in Ann Arbor, MI. Kerry has been a long time speaker and DIY addict, beginning with car audio in the ’90s. While other kids were trying to get the most “boom” from their cars, Kerry was installing and tweaking his system for maximum sound quality. Kerry got into DIY crossover design in 2012. Since then, he has designed and built around 2 dozen speakers. Kerry focuses on using high quality, low distortion drivers with wide overlap to get the best sound while minimizing the complexity of a crossover. He looks for unique drivers that offer specific benefits for a chosen design to use in a way that maximizes the positive traits and minimizes the negatives. Kerry recently started a website with ins tructional videos to help other DIY builders learn the basics of crossover design and speaker measurement techniques.

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Dayton Audio RS100-8 4″ Reference Full-Range Driver
Dayton Audio DNR-4.3 4.3 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-3.0 3 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Jantzen Audio 1.2mH 15 AWG P-Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DFFC-0.22 0.22uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor
Dayton Audio DFFC-0.10 0.10uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor Rollover image to zoom Click for larger image Manuals & Resources Dayton Audio Manufacturer Warranty Dayton Audio DFFC-0.10 0.10uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor
Dayton Audio 1.5mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio PMPC-5.1 5.1uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor
Dayton Audio DNR-2.0 2 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Audyn Cap Q4 8.2uF 400V MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitor
Dayton Audio 0.10mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel

Dayton 12″ HO DVC Build

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Designer:
Doublsmm

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Needed a new set of subwoofers to replace the 4 18s I had prior. I intended on being able to play much lower frequencies than I previously could, whilst maintaining a clean sound overall, these subwoofers suited my needs perfectly.

Design Goals:
To be able to play much lower frequencies than ever before.

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12″ Reference HO DVC Subwoofer

Enclosure Design:
Slot Port tuned to 26hz.

Enclosure Assembly:
3/4″ MDF

Conclusion:
In conclusion these subwoofers suit my needs perfectly, very accurate and tight bass, whilst being able to play down to 20hz with ease.

About the Designer:
My name is Jack and I run a YouTube channel by the name of Doublsmm (linked below) I recently sold my subwoofers and needed something for a new build.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCa5Xk3q5hEQwbCv1AHp9ZjQ

30Hz High Power Compact Passive Radiator

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PDF OF THE PROJECT: 0.modified_fearful_12sub__lab12c_2_x_dayt_sd315_pr_as_measd_imp_14_wshr__notes1

Designer:
mercifullyfree

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
Lab 12C used with 2 passive radiators to achieve 30Hz performance in compact enclosure. Due to lack of table saw I modified enclosure kit, but starting from scratch would probably be easier, if table saw available. Been using since 2014 with organ for low pedal notes with great results, but obviously, other uses would be great.

Design Goals:
Compact enclosure (<40 pounds & 2 cu ft) that extends to 30HZ with full use of 500W rating of LAB 12C for professional use with organ bass

Driver Selection:
LAB 12C

Enclosure Design:
passive radiator (dual)

Enclosure Assembly:
adapted kit

Crossover Design:
electronic with high pass at 25HZ

Conclusion:
successful – Been using for over 3 years and happy

About the Designer:
50 years exp (good to get old). Built first folded horn 45 years ago. Read republished (1971) Thiele/Small articles and built “bass reflex” cabinets, doing calculations by hand…love sound and love good bass.

Project Parts List

Dayton Audio SD315-PR 12″ Passive Radiator
Eminence Lab 12C High Power 12″ Subwoofer Speaker Driver 4 Ohm
Heavily Modified fEARful 12sub enclosure kit
Various hardware

BMR-3L

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Designer:
John H

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This project makes a small 2-way speaker suitable for a small room or desktop. This design uses a Tectonic balance mode radiator (BMR) as the mid-woofer in a vented enclosure.

Design Goals:
The design goal was to uses a Tectonic balance mode radiator in a small cabinet and experiment with an external port and crossover. The Tectonic balance mode radiator was known to have a decent bass response in a sealed cabinet so the goal was to see if below 60 Hz response was possible in a ported enclosure.

Driver Selection:
The Tectonic TEBM65C20F-8 balance mode radiator was used with the Dayton ND25FA-4. The Tectonic balance mode radiator has a dip at 1,700 Hz. For a budget build it did not seem appropriate to use a tweeter the could be crossed so low as to eliminate the dip

Enclosure Design:
The box tuning was set to 68 Hz in a 3-liter box gives a surprisingly low 53 Hz F3. The box internal volume is 3 liters without the port volume or crossover. By increasing the volume to 3.5 liters the port and crossover can go inside the box. The depth of the box would need to be increased from 5.5 inches to 6.25 inches.

The port tube is 1.5 inch inside diameter 25 cm, 9-7/8-inch long. The port tube is cut from 1.5 inch PVC pipe. Be careful as cutting PVC pipe on a 45-degree angle is difficult. A PVC elbow maybe used instead. Calculate the circumference of the middle of the fitting and use that length as an equivalent length of straight pipe.

Enclosure Assembly:
The cabinet thickness is 5/8 inch MDF. The box was cut with 45 degree angles to minimize the wood edge ghosting through the finish. The 45-degree cut panels are taped together then the joints are glued and folded together. Use a straight edge to make sure the panels are aligned straight while taping them together.

After the glue is dry the holes are cut for the drivers. The tweeter hole is cut with a 1-7/8-inch hole saw then the recess is cut with a 3/8-inch rabbet router bit. The Tectonic driver hole is cut with a 3.5-inch hole saw. The recess is then cut with a 3/8-inch rabbet router bit. The front baffle has a ½ inch radius round-over on the front edges.

About 3 oz. of insulation is added on the bottom part of the enclosure behind the Tectonic driver. Make sure the insulation is not near the port.

After finishing add gasket tape to the driver recess and the port mounting flange.

If the crossover is mounted outside the enclosure, seal the wire holes between the enclosure and crossover area.

Crossover Design:
The crossover was designed for flat frequency response. The part count got a bit high as the Tectonic BMR required a notch near 1,500 Hz without creating a deeper dip at 1,700 Hz. The crossover frequency is 3,800 Hz with LR4 slopes.

Tips & Tricks:
Before planning for an external port, test how to cut a hole for the 1.5 inch PVC. This project used a 1-15/16 drill bit but that was slightly to big.

The external port was nice looking feature. The external crossover doesn’t look that great if you are using up surplus components.

Conclusion:
The Tectonic flat cone driver sounds good. The is no noticeable dip at 1,700 Hz. The little driver does not complain when pushed hard. This is a nice budget 2-way that would work well in an office or bed room.

About the Designer:
John H is a member of the Parts Express speaker building design team.

Project Parts List:

Tectonic Elements TEBM65C20F-8 3-1/2″ BMR Full-Range Speaker 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Dayton Audio 0.80mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio 0.40mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio 0.15mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DMPC-27 27uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Audyn Cap Q4 4.7uF 400V MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-0.22 0.22uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DNR-1.5 1.5 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-12.5 12.5 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-20 20 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-25 25 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Gold Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Extra Long Shaft with Solder Tabs

Aries Bluetooth Stereo

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blk_ash_aries concrete_aries_front concrete_aries_back_1 cherry_back_1 cherry_front_1 cherry_inside_1

Designer:
4Matdesign

Project Category:
Home Electronics

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
A countertop/shelf mini Bluetooth stereo with several case material options to suit any space.

Design Goals:
My goal was to design a mini amplifier speaker unit that incorporates bluetooth for modern convenience while embracing the classic styling from the 1970-80’s. Maximum sound quality and output in the smallest case were a must. This device connects to a laptop, smart-phone or the 1/8″ cable for direct input. using materials of local wood or concrete results in a more natural alternative to the black plastic ‘boom tubes” and soundbars

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio DSA90-8 3″ Designer Series Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio DS90-8 3″ Designer Series Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm

Enclosure Design:
The concept was to fit the 3″ drivers into the smallest case possible while still keeping the optimum speaker box size with venting. The result was a 16″ long x 6.5″ deep x 5″ tall without legs. The wall panels to be 1/2″ thick. Starting with Baltic Birch plywood for the beta version, a charred local white ash face plate was fabricated. Next was a solid cherry case for both box and face plate. Lastly a Concrete box with charred white ash wood face was created.
Front panel includes direct power source switch and light indicator as well as master volume knob. Rear panel has a 2.5mm power jack and 1/8″ input cable.

Tips & Tricks:
Wire your speakers polarity correct.

Conclusion:
The case design and styling was of equal importance to the sound quality. I had to struggle to achieve this. The wool batting was changed to polyfill with better results. Still testing the concrete unit for sound quality but the cherry sounds great… chosen for its local availability and resonance.

About the Designer:
I’m an Architect with a new found interest in recreating 1970-80’s audio with modern convenience and classic styling.

Project Parts List:

Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1″ ID x 4″ L Flared
2.5mm Panel Mount DC Jack
2.5mm x 5.5mm x 14mm DC Plug
24 VDC 4.75A Power Supply with 2.5 x 5.5mm Plug and LED Indicator
Large Aluminum Receiver / Amplifier Knob 1.58″ – Matte
Wondom AA-AC11162 2x50W 4-8 Ohm Class D Audio Amplifier Board BT4.0 with Functional Cables
Wondom AA-JA11112 Interface Extension Board
Dayton Audio DS90-8 3″ Designer Series Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm

SLS-85

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Designer:
John H

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This project makes a small ported 2-way speaker suitable for a small room or desktop.

Design Goals:
The design goal was to make a vented speaker with a port resonance trap. By extending the frequency response low in a ported speaker, the port resonances can become an issue. By installing a resonance trap the port resonance can be reduced.

Driver Selection:
This is an all Peerless design with the DX20BF00-04, .75-inch tweeter and SLS-85S25CP04-04, 3.5-inch woofer.

Enclosure Design:
The box tuning was set to 60 Hz in a 2.1-liter box results in a F3 of 56 Hz. The cabinet internal volume is 3 liters without the port. The port is a slot design with 9.08 cm2, 1.41 in2 area and equivalent length of 35 cm, 13.75 inches. A port resonance trap is located near the middle of the trap with the same area and an equivalent length near ½ the total port length. To facilitate testing the front baffle was made to be removed.

Enclosure Assembly:
The cabinet thickness is 5/8 inch MDF. The box was cut with 45 degree angles to minimize the edges ghosting through the finish. The 45-degree cut panels are taped together then the joints are glued and folded together. Use a straightedge to make sure the panels are aligned straight while taping them together.

The front baffle is cut separately, attached to the box, then the sides routed flush to the box. The tweeter hole is cut with a 1-7/8-inch hole saw then the recess is cut with a 3/8-inch rabbet router bit. The Peerless driver hole is cut with a 3.125-inch hole saw. The front baffle has a ½ inch radius round-over on the front edges.

Cut and test the port cover so it fits in the box. Add the binding posts, wires, and resonance trap insulation before gluing the port cover in place. Paint or use black marker on the back of the port cover so wood does not show through the port opening on the back of the cabinet. Use a heavy caulk or panel adhesive to glue the port cover in place. Use a flat blade screw driver and damp rag to clean any of the glue squeeze out that is visible through the port opening on the back of the cabinet. Seal the wires coming through the port cover with glue.

About 2 oz. of insulation is added on the bottom part of the enclosure behind the driver. Make sure the insulation is away from the port and driver vent.

After finishing add gasket tape to the driver recess.
The crossover is mounted in the bottom of the cabinet.

Crossover Design:
The crossover was designed for flat frequency response. The DX20 and SLS-85 were easy to work with. The crossover frequency is 3,000 Hz with LR4 slopes.

Tips & Tricks:
Apply the exterior finish before assembling the cabinet pieces. The SLS-85 woofer is deep with the extra magnet so test fit the woofer to make sure it misses the insulation and crossover.

Conclusion:
The use of a port resonance trap works to reduce port noise. The DX20 tweeter sounds much better than its price point. Overall the this was a very satisfying combination of drivers.

About the Designer:
John H is a member of the PE Speaker Building Design Team

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio DMPC-2.7 2.7uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-8.2 8.2uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-10 10uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio 1.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio 0.20mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DNR-1.0 1 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-4.0 4 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Gold Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Extra Long Shaft with Solder Tabs

Bluetooth Ammo Can Speaker

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spkr4 spkr5 spkr2 spkr1 spkr3 spkr6

Designer: 
JOSER

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
1-8 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
Hey Guys, I am still learning, but I wanted to build a portable speaker that didn’t look like anything you would typically see in a store, so I built an ammo can speaker.

Design Goals:
To make a portable speaker that would be loud enough for a party and have the ability to be used anywhere.

Driver Selection:
Polk 5.25 Book Shelf Speaker w/ Tweeter

Enclosure Design:
50cal Metal Ammo Can

Tips & Tricks:
To cut the big holes make sure, if your lucky enough, to have a good hole saw or jig saw. These can be little frustrating to cut.

Conclusion:
The speaker works great! I took it camping and the batteries lasted for days! The only downside is that since the can is metal it drastically reduced the distance of the Bluetooth Receiver.

About the Designer:
Speakers, Speakers and more Speakers!

Products Used:
Bluetooth Receiver
Sure Electronics AA-AB41136 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Board aptX +EDR 12 VDC
Brand:Sure Electronics
|Model: AA-AB41136|Part # 320-351

Amplifier
Sure Electronics AA-AB32174 2x50W TDA7492 Class-D Amplifier Board
Brand:Sure Electronics
|Model: AA-AB32174|Part # 320-301

Switches
Parts Express SPST Automotive Small Paddle Switch w/Red Illumination 12V
Brand:Parts Express
|Part # 060-742

Sound Damping
StreetWires ZNSDSPKR ZeroNoise Noise Killer Self Adhesive 12″ x 12″ Sound Damping Sheet 4 Pieces
Brand:StreetWires
|Model: ZNSDSPKR|Part # 267-1770

Alpha Cinema Grand

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small3 small5 small4 small1 h_resp final_res acg_module acg_crossover

Designer:
Mzisserson

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
The Alpha Cinema Grande (ACG) is a low-profile module-based left/right/center channel cinema bar designed for explosive cinema levels in small to medium sized rooms. The high efficiency assures even entry level home theater receivers will drive the ACG to cinema-like levels, while the carefully selected driver complement assures wide dispersion, and low distortion.
Integrated into a room, the ACG sits below the television blending into the room’s décor to assure a high spouse acceptance factor, while freeing up floor-space without sacrificing fidelity.
When used with any subwoofer, the ACG will also provide strong stereo performance since many home theaters are also used, if only on occasion, for music.
Without any crossover modification, it is possible to utilize the Alpha-4/ND25TA module assembly as a solo center channel, or an against-wall/in-bookshelf speaker, as long as the front baffle is at least 12 inches in length (or height if orienting vertically) and the 0.4 cubic feet of internal volume is maintained.

Design Goals:
Stroll through a big-box electronics shop, or finger-walk online for small home theater solutions and the field is fairly flat. There is the high end, expensive stuff, and there are the low-fi cinema bars with meek drivers and chip-amplification. The solution to this problem is the Alpha Cinema Grande.
The ACG has to be affordable to build, but not a strict budget-build like the Tenacious 3. Careful crossover work will be required to compensate for the environment which is unique when you place loudspeakers, in this case 3 separate loudspeakers sharing a segmented cabinet, between two large surface areas such as a big-screen (40 inch or more) television and a low, wide TV stand.
Cinema-like levels in small to medium sized rooms with modest amplification is a must, which is an area where many cinema bars seem to fail. High efficiency through its bandwidth will be critical to achieve this goal. This becomes tricky since many small home Hi-Fi drivers simply would not do, even in pairs, and many small pro-drivers would not meet the 80Hz requirement to cross over to a subwoofer. Recently, Eminence came out with a 4” professional PA Line array/midrange driver with reasonable low end response and good efficiency that will allow for the desired performance while preserving one of the most important factors…
The running joke in the audio world is any given components “Spouse Acceptance Factor”(SAF). Simply stated it means: Is this thing pretty enough to be put on display in a home? The Alpha Cinema Grand has to be. It is going in a living room, nuff’ said. This will be accomplished with a tough-but-subtle look with a grille on the front, facets blending the sides, a low and wide profile, and a Mahogany veneer with a furniture finish.
Finally, at 30,000 feet looking at the whole of what the ACG will be required to do, music cannot be an afterthought. Many times, specifically in small, affordable home theaters there is a duality required of the front loudspeakers to reproduce both the scope of a comet crashing through ones living-room and the subtly of a guitar-pick leaving the strings. All too often cinema bar type solutions fail to provide this capability. The Alphas Cinema Grande will have to be able to do both without question.

Driver Selection:
The Alpha Cinema Grande was not worth building unless it could be efficient enough to bring cinema-like levels to small to medium rooms. Sounds easy until the requirement for a low-profile, and high SAF that extends deep enough in the bass meet the home theater requirement of 80Hz is thrown in and yes, why not make sure it performs great with music, too! I was ready to give up, and then I remembered that Eminence recently released the line-array/midrange driver the 4” Alpha 4.
The Alpha 4, 8ohm version, will be used in pairs anchoring all three modules encompassed in the ACG. It is a pro-driver from eminence meaning power handling will be no-sweat, distortion is low enough to not color the sound, and they are efficient enough when used in pairs to yield 88dB after a full 6dB of baffle step compensation which will not be necessary due to large boundaries nearby. Ultimately, the efficiency should be closer to 91dB when the dust settles.
In order to achieve extremely high output and durability, most pro-audio midranges utilize an extremely stiff suspension which disallows any mid-bass from them. This makes perfect sense, and is precisely where Eminence decided to push the limits. The Alpha 4 will play reasonably down to 80Hz in this application though not a hair lower!
Despite being a midrange, to assure acceptable dispersion in both the horizontal and vertical domains (A big challenge of center channels and cinema bars alike), the crossover will be kept as low as possible while the center-to-center spacing will be minimized. To allow for these requirements to be met, a small-format 1” dome would be required.
We live in a world where flat response is always heralded as the highest form of saintliness in loudspeakers. Why then, would one choose a tweeter such as the Dayton ND25TA that despite its flat pass-band response, has a large break-up seated at 18Khz causing the response to pitch and yaw at its top end?
The answer is simple: How we perceive these anomalies in response are not always a terrible thing once room-reflections and our hearing are added to the equation. In fact, many enjoy tweeters with response such as the ND25TA describing the sound as having great “sparkle”, or an “airy” top-end. Not all tweeters with top-end break-up modes will exhibit these audible characteristics. In fact, in the infancy of metal-dome tweeters, it was the break-up being in the wrong place causing other issues aside from a wonky response that led to the no longer valid stigma that metal dome tweeters are “harsh” sounding or “fatiguing” to listen to.
In the Alpha Cinema Grande, the ND25TA’s response will be utilized to provide sparkle when glass shatters due to gun-fire, and make for extended, airy response for music reproduction while the great transient response of the Titanium dome will provide pin-point imaging across the front sound-stage.
Finally, ND25TA also touts 91dB of efficiency and shockingly low distortion, specially the 3rd harmonic which is universally regarded as the “devil’s harmonic” (perhaps not, but it is a measurable aspect one wants as low as possible).

Enclosure Design:
The enclosure design has some challenges since the Alpha Cinema Grande consists of three channels from a home theater housed in the same enclosure. One of the greatest of these concerns is vibration transferring between the separate enclosures.
The dividing walls of the enclosures will be two layers of 0.75” MDF with ~2” of space between them that will be filled with playground sand. Each chamber wall will be lined with sonic barrier as well. The side-walls will be 1.5” thick to allow for the facets to be cut in while the rest will be braced 0.75” thick. Over-built? Yes. Assuring a rock-solid cabinet is something we are fortunate to make happen as DIY-ers. A little extra time an effort goes a long way toward great sound when applied throughout the entirety a build.
Each chamber comes out to be approximately 0.45 cubic feet (~13 liters). The width of the ACG can vary to fit TV stands 40 inches to 60 inches, keeping the chambers as even one-third parts of the whole enclosure. The Q of each chamber is 0.692 with the 60” width to 0.724 with the 40” width. This is a very small technical change in terms of enclosure tuning that would be averaged by the room/environment with an 80Hz crossover well before the difference would ever become notably audible.
It is possible to use the Alpha 4/ND25TA module assembly as a center channel so long as the baffle is 12 inches or wider and an internal volume of 0.4 cubic feet is maintained. This will work well when used with large speakers and extra efficiency is required.
The proportions of the Alpha 4’s and the 25TA’s is set by alignment of the two bottom screw holes of the ND25TA to the top left, and top right screw hole of the Alpha 4 pair respectively. This aligns the drivers correctly in acoustic space as a single module. So long as the proportions are kept correct, justification to the top of the speaker, or the bottom matters not. One complete module assembly gets centered, and the left/right should be justified to the far ends as much as possible. In this build, it was determined by the width of the facets. It is OK that they left and right channels will not be centered in their cabinet chambers.
Lining the cabinet chamber walls with Sonic Barrier and 3oz. of Acousa-Stuff per chamber easily takes care of any errant reflections internally. Also: No worries on the non-countersunk tweeter. Math will tell you where the blips should be measurably, however they are not visible, and I would shake the hand of the person that can hear it in this instance. For this design, it is more advantageous to have the better acoustic alignment between the woofer and the tweeters on the z-axis.
Edge-treatment for diffraction effects such as facets and roundovers are not necessary. Any use of these would be primarily cosmetic in this build due mainly to its application which will have large reflective surfaces adjacent to Alpha Cinema Grand.

Enclosure Assembly:
After laminating the dual-thick sides of the ACG, the only other real trick-shot was filling the sand chambers. Once to the point where only the front baffle was left to glue in place, I made a make-shift vibration table out of two 8” woofer sitting in the driver cache. This worked well, and helped pack the sand in to assure as high of density as possible. Once filled with as much sand as possible (nearly 25lbs worth), the baffle was glued in place.
Since mahogany veneer was going on, the entire cabinet was then sanded to 80G, then painted with a foam brush using a 50/50 mix of wood-glue and water. I always let that cure for a couple of days over MDF to assure complete drying. Titan DX was used to adhere the Mahogany veneer from PE (BandIt brand) which was very easy to work with.
For a finish I wanted to bring out the natural beauty of the mahogany since it has such a reflective grain. After sanding the surface to 600G, I then applied two very thin coats of high gloss tung oil, sanding to 600G when dry. Historically I have not been a huge fan of the plastic-look of gloss polyurethane. I used two coats of a low-gloss wipe on polyurethane to finish off the cabinet and was very happy with the results. In a living-room, as much as I would love the wood to have a completely natural finish, durability is a must. The low gloss poly added the durability while the tung oil highlighted the natural reflectivity of the grain. All the while, the end finish looks very natural.
The final element was a grill to soften the look once in-room. Ironically, everyone seems to universally agree (including significant others) that it looks better with the grille off. Oh well, I got to practice some grill making anyway.
Mitered molding makes a nice grill frame. From there, it is just a matter of adding grill cloth. One miss was the addition of supports in the middle of the fame which were required due to the length of the pieces. The tension of the grill cloth can (and did) cause some bowing and warping. They were added after, however it would had been easier to due during the assembly of the frame.
Prior to veneering high strength neodymium magnets were sunk into the front baffles. Once veneered over, they leave a clean face and complementary magnets in the grill make a very firm attachment.

Crossover Design:
The goal from the off-set for the ACG was to have exceptional polar response in both the vertical and horizontal domains. With the careful driver geometry chosen, as well as utilization of an optimized D’Appolito type of crossover, developed by Joseph D’Apploito for an MTM loudspeaker configuration, this goal was met.
The full-range capability of the Alpha 4-8 is actually quite impressive. Once on-baffle it measures remarkably flat and has excellent extension. This created more of a problem than it cures since the target crossover was 2200Hz assuring a good acoustic power match between the alpha 4’s and the ND25TA. A Zobel was added to help shape the top end of the crossover after the knee a bit, though using the Alpha 4 as a midrange, this would likely not be necessary.
The ND25TA is a peach. With its smooth response, and ability to cross over surprisingly low with a 3BW slope, it happily accepted the challenge of crossing over at 2200Hz as show in the distortion sweeps. At a level of 95dB at 1 meter distance, the ND25TA’s THD was a remarkable -40dB. The second order harmonic dominates this measurement which is apparent when listening to it since it is very clear, has great apparent transient response and speed, sparkle, and does it all without sounding fatiguing. The third order harmonic was -50dB falling lower at higher frequencies. Definitely a good value for the money in the small arena of small-format tweeters though for some, it’s top-end break-up may not make it ideal.
Impedance across the ACG is a fairly easy. Its minima occurs at roughly 180Hz, has a magnitude of 4.5ohms and is just about resistive which should pose no threat to “8 ohm” receivers and amplifiers. The worst reactive load occurs at 700Hz with a magnitude of 6.8ohms and phase angle of 25 degrees. My 15 year old Pioneer receiver has no issue driving the ACG to cinema-like levels. Between the measured results and running it hard, I am comfortable saying it is an easy load to drive.

Tips & Tricks:
Lining the cabinet walls in combination with the sand chambers goes a long way for isolating each module of the Alpha 4/ND25TA.
Instead of making a make-shift vibration table out of storage-woofers, a palm-sander against the side of the cabinet will do an excellent job at packing down the sand. Long-term Tech Talk forum veteran and cabinet maker “Squidspeak” popped this tip in on me after the damage was done, but would have definitely make life easier if I was in the know ahead of time.
Watch the crossover size. Given the size of each module chamber (~0.4 CF), build em’ long and narrow so they fit through the Alpha 4 hole nice and easy.
I would simply “rag-on” (use a rag to wipe) both the tung oil, then poly with a very light sand in-between. Foam brushes can vary in density and caused some issues when I first began finishing.
Set the home theater receiver speakers setting to “Small”, and subwoofer to “On” for the optimal mating of the Alpha Cinema Grand and subwoofer in-room. If there is an adjustable crossover in the reciever, set it to 80Hz.
If building the ACG as a modular system and orienting the speakers vertically, the tweeters should be toward the inside of the listening space, not the outside.

Conclusion:
The Alpha Cinema Grand hit all of the goals it was designed to do. With its great efficiency, it plays to theater-like levels in small to medium sized rooms with the power of a humble home theater receiver. The mating of a pro-audio midrange/midbass with a metal dome tweeter capitalizes on the strengths of both, and it performs well for both music and movies while blending into the environment.
For most main/center combinations my average volume level on my receiver was in the -30dB to -35dB range. The Alpha Cinema Grand’s high efficiency means my new listening level is in the -55dB to -60dB range while my receiver runs nice and cool. Though this was all part of the design goals, it was a bit shocking to see in action and one result I was thrilled with. Another particular item I was thrilled with is the Alpha 4.
The Alpha 4 can almost run full-range and is as smooth as one can ask for a measly $30/pr. I think this lil’ mid-bass (more mid than bass) would shine when used with a very large woofer in a “MTMW” design, or even a “TMW” design with a higher efficiency woofer, utilized wide-band to a small-format dome tweeter, ribbon, or the like. Truly a low distortion (as good as some “reference” drivers), high power, inexpensive driver with surprising resolution that measured consistently over the six units I had.

Check out the detailed write-up in the Tech Talk forum Project Gallery for more information!

About the Designer:
Michael Zisserson is a member of the Parts Express Design Team.

Project Parts List:

Eminence Alpha 4-8 4″ Full-Range Pair 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio ND25TA-4 1″ Titanium Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Parts Express Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Wire Binding Post Terminal
Sonic Barrier 3/4″ 3-Layer Acoustic Sound Damping Material with PSA 18″ x 24″
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill Speaker Cabinet Sound Damping Material 1 lb. Bag
Dayton Audio 0.80mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio 0.20mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DMPC-7.5 7.5uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-6.8 6.8uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-10 10uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-4.7 4.7uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Dayton Audio DNR-1.0 1 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DNR-2.0 2 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Parts Express Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Wire Binding Post Terminal
Misc Wires, connectors, misc…

Dayon Reference Series Towers and Center channel

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Designer:
Joe Edgar

Project Category:
Tower Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$500 – $1,000

Project Description:
3 way tower speakers and 2 way center channel speaker using all Reference series drivers.

Design Goals:
I wanted to upgrade my home theater speakers but but didn’t want to break bank in the process. I started researching and my conclusion was that making them myself was the way to go. I chose the Dayton reference line because of the glowing reviews and value they presented. It was also extremely helpful that Dayton Audio gives you the necessary files to sim crossovers. This was also a big reason I chose to use these speakers.

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio RS28F-4 1-1/8″ Silk Dome Tweeter
Dayton Audio RS125-8 5″ Reference Woofer
Dayton Audio RS225-8 8″ Reference Woofer
Dayton Audio RS150-8 6″ Reference Woofer

Enclosure Design:
The 3 way towers are a Bass Reflex design using a 3″ port tuned to 35hz. The section containing the RS225-8 is 1.4 cubic feet in volume. The mid(RS125-8) and tweeter(RS28f) are contained in an upper sealed section that is .15 cubic feet in volume. The center channel is a sealed enclosure with bracing and .28 cubic feet in volume (2 RS150-8) (1 RS28f).

Enclosure Assembly:
The 3 way towers are made out of 3/4″ MDF assembled with 1-1/2″ countersunk screws and wood glue. I then back filled the screw holes and covered them in 2 colors of wood pattern vinyl. This was a much bigger task than I originally expected so for the center channel I used 3/4″ birch and oak plywood to mimic the color pattern from the towers. All joints were caulked and foam was added to all interior surfaces except the baffle. The speaker cutouts were rounded over on the rear of the baffle and the mids and tweeters were flush mounted.

Crossover Design:
The three way towers crossover design was given to me by another member in the Tech talk forums (Filmslayer) there were some minor tweaks made. The towers are crossed at 450 hz and at 2400 hz. The center channel kept the tweeter section crossover design ( with slight modification) from the towers but the RS150’s are crossed with the RS28f at 1900hz

Conclusion:
I was able to make home theater speakers that sound absolutely amazing for a fraction of what it would have cost me to buy the equivalent from a manufacturer.

About the Designer:
I work in Pro A/V but this is my first speaker building project. I am hobbyist wood worker and a home audio enthusiast so this allowed me to combine those hobbies.

Project Parts List

Dayton Audio RS28F-4 1-1/8″ Silk Dome Tweeter
Dayton Audio RS125-8 5″ Reference Woofer
Dayton Audio RS225-8 8″ Reference Woofer
Dayton Audio RS150-8 6″ Reference Woofer
Parts Express Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Cup Rectangle
Penn-Elcom F1686 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1.57″ Dia. x 0.61″ H
Penn-Elcom 9120 Rubber Cabinet Foot 0.88″ Dia. x 0.31″ H
Precision Port 3″ Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube Kit

FootNote Amp

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img_3046 img_3047 img_3048 img_3052

Designer:
CCs Wood Shop

Project Category:
Amplifiers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
20+ Hours

Project Cost:
Under $100

Project Description:
Bought two of these little practice amps to play around with, they actually sound pretty good. It was fun building it and fun playing threw it. My foot pedals play in stereo so I still have to build the second one. Not sure if I’m going to clear coat, paint, or put a treed on it, just have to wait and see.

Design Goals:
To have a practice amp

Driver Selection:
FootNote Amp
Part# 249-402

Conclusion:
Made from some old scraps of pine I had laying around.

About the Designer:
I’ve played in quite a few blues bands in my younger years then a country band and now do a lot wood working in my spare time.


The Tenacious Bass 6 and 8 Subwoofers

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bothsubs_large tb8mainpic_large tb6mainpic_large tb8five_large tb6four_large tb6one_large tb6three_large tb6two_large tb8four_large tb8one_large tb8three_large tb8two_large tb_6_box_drawing tb_8_box_drawing tb6_tb8_freq_resp_graphs

Designer:
Tom Zarbo

Project Category:
Subwoofers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
This subwoofer project is really two projects in one. Since many folks tend to gravitate towards building smaller 2-way speakers due to space considerations, using a subwoofer with speakers of that type really makes sense.

Design Goals:
I had the idea of designing two subwoofers with a similar design language in two sizes, or ‘strengths’ if you will. These two projects should meet the needs of most people with speakers ranging from tiny, single drivers to larger 5-7″ woofer two-way stand-mounted speakers.

Driver Selection:
When thinking of subwoofer drivers, you almost have to consider the offerings from Tang Band, they are almost legendary at this point. The smaller ‘Tenacious Bass 6′ (TB-6) subwoofer uses the Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6.5″ driver, while the larger ‘Tenacious Bass 8′ (TB-8) sub goes with the Tang Band W8740P 8″ driver. The name ‘Tenacious Bass’ is an obvious play on the Tang Band name, but it certainly is descriptive of their bass producing abilities. Although not a ‘driver’ the sexy Dayton RSS 262-PR 10″ Passive Radiator is used instead of a vent in the TB-8 to tune this enclosure low and keep the enclosure size reasonably small.

Enclosure Design:
I wanted the enclosures to be unique looking, as well as functional. Both have a fairly beefy bottom plate that adds interest and serves a purpose. In the smaller TB-6 sub, the bottom plate serves as part of the slot vent, and in the larger TB-8 sub, the space between the enclosure and the bottom plate allow ample airspace for the bottom-mounted subwoofer driver to breathe. Additionally, the large round-overs on the smaller ‘Tenacious Bass 6′ aid in reducing port turbulence at the slot vent exit, as well as give it a bit of ‘pizzazz.’ Both versions of this project produce bass with a nice ‘visceral’ feel to them as the drivers, vents, or passive radiators as the case may be are mere inches from the ground.

Enclosure Assembly:
Both cabinet designs are constructed using simple 3/4″ MDF butt joints, with 1/2″ MDF amplifier sub-enclosures. The vent assembly on the smaller TB-6 enclosure is constructed entirely of 1/2″ MDF with roundovers on the inside exits. The folded slot vent on the TB-6 is 6″ wide and 1.25″ high, approximately 37.5″ long. I added small ‘triangles’ to the front horizontal corners to provide adequate strength since I used a large 1.25″ roundover on the front horizontal corners. I also assembled the vent assembly as one unit with temporary spacer blocks to ensure that the vent area remained constant throughout. This assembly was glued in after the box was glued up except for the top. I used Gorilla glue to assemble both projects except for the vent assembly and top of the TB-6 enclosure — which used PL Premium construction adhesive. I chose the PL over wood glue or Gorilla glue because I wanted the thicker consis tency to ensure the vent structure was airtight, but I didn’t want the ‘foam-out’ that comes with using Gorilla glue. Before installing the driver, I added a 26″ x 26″ piece of polyfill batting folded in half, then in thirds to the top of the woofer compartment. This helps calm down vent noise a bit and is specified in the design.
The TB-8 has a double-thick front baffle to accommodate the thicker driver recess of the Dayton passive radiator. It also has a double thick baffle on the bottom of the enclosure where the 8′ driver is mounted as it has a thick driver flange and needs to be flush with the bottom of the enclosure. The pictures of the cabinet drawings have much more detail as well as exact sizes and dimensions.

Crossover Design:
Being powered subwoofers, the crossover is built into the plate amplifiers used. The TB-6 uses the 70 watt Dayton SA70 plate amp, where the TB-8 employs the 200 watt Yung SD200 plate amp. These amps were chosen as they allow for a bit of ‘headroom’ where the amp produces more power than the driver would normally see.

Tips & Tricks:
As I mentioned, the vent structure on the smaller TB-6 should be glued up as a unit before assembly is complete. Also, use a square to ensure the amp sub-enclosure plate is perpendicular to the enclosure as any gaps between it and the vent assembly may result in air leaks. If I were to build these again, I would apply the veneer to the enclosure before making the driver openings; veneer application would be much easier that way.

Conclusion:
During the construction of this project I encountered several obstacles which you can read about on the Tech Talk ‘Speaker Project Gallery’ sub-forum. Part of the challenge in DIY speaker building is working through problems, and in this case, the end results more than met my expectations for bass output as well as style and attractiveness.

About the Designer:
I’ve been dabbling in speakers since I was a teenager when I built my first set of speakers. Even as a kid I thought they sounded kind of awful… but I had been bit by the bug — and have been striving for better sound and more creative cabinet designs ever since.

Project Parts List:

“Tenacious Bass 6 Subwoofer”
Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2″ Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Dayton Audio SA70 70W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
“Tenacious Bass 8 Subwoofer”
Tang Band W8-740P 8″ Subwoofer
Yung SD200 200W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier Module No Boost
Dayton Audio RSS265-PR 10″ Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator

First Build – Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers

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img_7079 img_7081 img_4818 img_4347 img_4166 img_4201 img_4209 img_4216

Designer:
Lovynash Dookhee

Project Category:
Freestyle Speakers

Project Level:
Beginner

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
I decided to replace my desktop 5.1 Creative speakers with a Bluetooth system to free up some space on my desk. Although the quality of the sound was top priority, I wanted to design a set of speakers that would stand out and be part of the interior design too.

Design Goals:
– Decent bass (I’m using a 2-1/2” full range driver so can’t expect much low frequencies)
– Clear mids and highs
– Aesthetically pleasing blending in with the current interior design (not a typical driver in a box)
– Overall cost $150

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2″ FULL RANGE
Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4″ TWEETER

Enclosure Design:
– Vented/Ported box; thank you Parts Express for helping me work out the port dimensions!
– PVC Tube used as a port

Enclosure Assembly:
– Tweeters mounted in aluminium tubes (sand blasted finish)
– Gloss white box with foam on inner walls and filled with poly fill
– European walnut feature to blend the aluminium tube with the box

Crossover Design:
Parts Express assisted me greatly on this as I’ve never heard of the term “crossover” until I decided to build these speakers – thank you guys!

Conclusion:
I’m over the moon! I never thought they would sound this good. My choice of music is varied, with with lots of background instruments and I could hear everything through those speakers. It was like re-discovering my entire music library; I am now considering adding a sub-woofer to improve the bass.

About the Designer:
I am an industrial designer with an interest in almost anything that can be manufactured.

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2″ Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm

PPA100

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img_7310 20160727_20.30.55 20160727_19.58.59 crossover_schematic gated_response system_impedance system_response

Designer:
Wogg

Project Category:
Guitar and Bass Speakers

Project Level:
Advanced

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
A Portable Practice Amplifier for bass guitar, designed to have a far more accurate frequency response than the typical commercial offerings. This design goal makes it suitable for a mono music blaster, a keyboard amplifier, or whatever needs loud, clean and portable sound near an AC power outlet.

The speaker portion is probably more of a beginner / intermediate skill level, however the accompanying electronics are quite advanced for DIY.

The electronics were designed long ago, and will not be documented here in detail, however they are based on National Semiconductor applications manuals and include the appropriate gain blocks and a 3 way shelving tone control. This old project was updated with a properly designed speaker, a new custom active filter setup, and a PBTL amplifier board to make the most out of the existing power supply.

Design Goals:
High sensitivity and flat response utilizing the cabinet space available in a 2 way speaker with 8″ woofer.

The electronics were designed long ago, and will not be documented here in detail, however they are based on National Semiconductor applications manuals and include the appropriate gain blocks and a 3 way shelving tone control. This old project was updated with a properly designed speaker, a new custom active filter setup, and a PBTL amplifier board to make the most out of the existing power supply.

Driver Selection:
The Dayton PA200-8 was chosen for the woofer, and aligns vented with a 2” x 2.5” vent tuning the box to about 47Hz and reaching 49Hz at the -3B roll off point. The pro woofer will exceed Xmax pretty easily in the 80Hz range, however the Xmech is much larger so the damage potential for the woofer is minimal and the only risk is elevating distortion at high power. For this application, that’s an easy trade off.

The Peerless 811467 horn loaded dome tweeter was chosen based on cost, response, and very high efficiency. The manufacture specification sheet was used to trace the response and impedance profile for crossover modeling.

Enclosure Design:
The design is a simple trapezoid, 15” wide by 13” tall and 11” deep constructed from ½” ply originally chosen to save on weight and be durable.

Enclosure Assembly:
The cabinet was originally built by me about 20 years ago using simple table saw cuts, rabbet joints and internal 1×1 corner bracing. The rear panel is removable to service the electronics and screws into a hardwood 1×1 rim.

Crossover Design:
The crossover uses a 2nd order electrical layout on the woofer with a cap as a breakup notch on the coil, paired to a 3rd order electrical filter for the tweeter including significant padding to drop down the high sensitivity of the tweeter to match the woofer.

Tips & Tricks:
If I were to build new, I would use ¾” wood for the cabinet, additional damping and bracing, and adjust the tweeter padding to improve the final frequency response a bit.

Conclusion:
This little cabinet is superb with the bass guitar, the tone is clean and pure and all overtones are reproduced exactly as they come out of the jack. I couldn’t be happier.
I also made a cable adapter to take the output from a phone and sum to mono for use as a portable music blaster. In this application the amp is capable of getting party time loud while sounding well balanced. Certainly not up to critical listening against a good set of hi-fi speakers, but plenty good for a portable party machine, particularly with the tone controls to adjust up the bass output.

About the Designer:
Paul Graves has been building woofers since he was a teenager with his dad and is an electronics engineer. I’ve mostly focused on the analog electronics design and woofers for years prior to finding Tech Talk and learning about passive crossover design. This is my first project utilizing crossover design tools and measurements.

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio PA200-8 8″ Pro Woofer Speaker
Peerless 811647 HDT 100 1″ Horn Loaded Dome Tweeter
Jantzen Audio 0.80mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio DMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
22uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Crossover Capacitor
Dayton Audio DNR-10 10 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Dayton Audio DMPC-6.8 6.8uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Jantzen Audio 0.50mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Dayton Audio PMPC-3.3 3.3uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor

Refurbished Grundig WiFi Speaker

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20170514_184238 20170421_165528

Designer:
entomophile

Project Category:
Furniture

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
I pulled the guts out of this old Grundig Stereophonic accessory speaker and outfitted it with a pair of bookshelf speakers, sub, wifi audio, and amplifier to make a self contained stereo system.

Design Goals:
I had the speaker cabinet lying around and wanted to re-purpose it. I wanted it to be loud enough for parties, have good quality sound, and be relatively inexpensive. And of course, it all had to fit within the cabinet.

Driver Selection:
I chose the Dayton B652 Air bookshelf speakers for their great reviews and low cost. I wanted a bit more bass so I built the Voxel mini sub.

Enclosure Design:
The Daytons were used with the stock enclosures. The Voxel was built as described here http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/58008-voxel-a-mini-sub.

Enclosure Assembly:
Space was a little more limited than I anticipated. I wanted the sub to come through the base of the cabinet but that would have raised the Daytons above the grille cloth. So the Daytons were screwed into the base and the sub was secured on top of the Daytons. That worked fine. Once the cabinet was closed up, it added a nice boom to the Voxel. The amplifier was disassembled and the volume, treble, and bass pots were removed from the circuit board and placed on a custom mount where the original knobs were. The power button was also rewired to the back of the cabinet. I swapped the original incandescent power indicator lamp for a blue led behind the grill cloth. Audio is supplied from a Google Chromecast Audio puck.

Conclusion:
The speaker looks fantastic and sounds great too. The wifi audio is super convenient allowing me to play music from any internet connected device. I used pre-built speakers this time for a quick build but next time I will likely use component speakers and build a custom enclosure that makes better use of the space. I think the amp is a bit under powered for this setup and may get upgraded in the future but it was a good value. Total cost was about $150 not including the Grundig which I got for free.

About the Designer:
I am an audio noob but I like to update vintage radios with modern components & technology to give them a new life.

Project Parts List:

Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4″ Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-1/2″ ID x 4″ L Flared
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2x40W Mini Amplifier + 1x68W Sub Output
Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2″ 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair
Speaker Grill Cloth Fabric Silver Turquoise Stripe Yard 36″

Australian Army Speaker Box

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img_20170304_173311 img_20170228_181440 img_20170227_221502 img_20170223_220502 img_20170223_205841 img_20170226_181832 img_20170226_095538 img_20170226_095531 img_20170226_125112 img_20170227_193014 img_20170223_180114 img_20170221_170753 img_20170221_171741 img_20170225_171141

Designer:
John

Project Category:
Portable Speakers

Project Level:
Intermediate

Project Time:
8-20 Hours

Project Cost:
$100 – $500

Project Description:
A portable, powerful and clear sounding speaker that fits inside a standard 5.56 Australian military ammo container

Design Goals:
To create something that doesn’t only look like it came from the military but for it to perform like it does too! Symmetrical, tough, and durable.

Driver Selection:
Dayton Audio RS100-4 4″ Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Part # 295-378
Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Part # 275-025

Enclosure Design:
The container has roughly 6L of airspace and the two main drivers required roughly 3L of airspace. Adding the batteries, mounts for the Amp and battery pack, wires, port, dampening material, two crossovers and the interface dish roughly reduced the airspace to just under 3L.

Enclosure Assembly:
Because everyone everywhere who knows anything about speaker design will tell you that building a speaker out of metal is a terrible idea, I decided to line as much of the inside as I could with timber and sound dampening material. Leaving very little metal exposed helped with reducing reverberation, and I still got to keep the rugged look of a freaking ammo container!
A side note. I never actually took a photo of the container with the dampening material inside, but fill it with as much as possible keeping in mind that air need to pass through it and the more you add the less total volume you have and you might actually be decreasing the performance of your speaker and over dampening it.

Tips & Tricks:
Being my first build I got some help online. Kirby Meets Audio on youtube supplied me with a crossover design, for a price. Parts express have a rather older video on youtube about putting together a DIY crossover which helped heaps. I managed to build the crossover but I’m not sure I entirely understand how or why it worked. Beginners luck?
The low pass should be 1300HZ and the high pass should be 4000HZ, both a 2nd-order Chebyshev. But those are just numbers and words to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4Y1OGalDUo&t=349s

Conclusion:
In conclusion I would recommend doing more measuring, and maybe reading a book or two about sound engineering before diving in again. Learn from my mistakes and optimise this design. It does sound amazing, but it might also sound better if I knew more.

About the Designer:
My name is John and I’m an industrial bread baker and packer. I have little to no experience in electronics and I’m just a general nerd who is into PC gaming and general tech. I’ve had over 5 years on and off experience in timber work projects and i’m not a newbie when it comes to tools and crafting in general.

Project Parts List:

Dayton Audio KAB-230 2x30W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
Dayton Audio KAB-BE 18650 Battery Extension Board for Bluetooth Amplifier Boards
Dayton Audio RS100-4 4″ Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Penn-Elcom D0941K Blank Dish Black 3-1/2″ x 5-1/8″
Jantzen Audio 0.35mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Jantzen Audio 39uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor
ERSE 0.24mH 14 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
6.8uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Crossover Capacitor
Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1″ ID x 4″ L Flared
Middle Atlantic GUARD Muffin Fan Grill Guard For 4-1/2″ – 4-5/8″ Fans
SPST Sub-Mini Toggle Switch
19 VDC 4.8A Switching Power Supply with 2.5 x 5.5mm Center Positive Plug
AS/NZS 3112 3-Pole Plug to C13 Polarized IEC 6 ft. Power Cord 18/3
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